Sights along the Caminos de Pasión | Part 1
Sights along the Caminos de Pasión | Part 1
The first part of our journey along the Caminos de Pasión takes us through the provinces of Jaén and Córdoba. We visit a total of six picturesque towns, each with its own unique charm and rich history. The start is in the impressive and ancient Alcalá la Real in the province of Jaén. The route then leads us through Baena, Cabra, Lucena and Priego de Córdoba in the province of Córdoba. The endpoint of this part of our exploratory trip is Puente Genil, on the border of the provinces of Córdoba and Seville.
Our journey of discovery along the sights of the Caminos de Pasión
According to the weather forecasts, we can expect a lot of rain during the upcoming tour through Andalusia. The weather phenomenon DANA is going to cause abundant rainfall and flooding. We’re not very confident, but upon arrival at Málaga airport, we’re greeted by excellent (dry) weather! As we walk out of the arrival hall with our luggage a little later, our broadly grinning guide José-Luis is already waiting for us. José-Luis will later guide us during the planned cycling tours. We jump into the minibus arranged for us and rush to the starting point of our journey: Alcalá la Real.
Alcalá la Real
After first travelling on the motorway, we turn onto a fairly deserted provincial road. We arrive in a beautiful hilly area full of olive groves and drive further and further away from the inhabited world. It’s already starting to get dark when we suddenly see a picturesque fortified town on a hilltop straight ahead of us. Our guide tells us that this is the fort of Alcalá la Real. Not long after, we drive into the charming town where we first go to our hotel. We drop off our luggage, freshen up and are ready for our first city walk.
Our city guide Maica is waiting for us at the entrance of the hotel. Because it’s already quite late, she immediately starts. As we follow her, admiring the beautiful buildings around us, she briefly informs us about the history of the town. She tells us that the history of Alcalá la Real dates back to prehistoric times. In 713 it was conquered by the Moors and given the name Al-Qal’a (the fortress). Under Moorish rule, the city experienced a period of prosperity, especially in the 12th century. In the mid-14th century, Alcalá la Real was conquered by King Alfonso XI of Castile. He added the title “Real” (Royal) to the name. After the fall of Granada in 1492, the city lost its strategic importance.
In the centuries that followed, the population gradually moved from the fortress to the lower-lying areas. This is also where we take the city walk. And where we hear one interesting story and anecdote after another from Maica. Due to the tight schedule, we unfortunately don’t visit the fort. But from a distance, we see it beautifully illuminated. We decide that this is an extra reason to visit Alcalá la Real again.
Priego de Córdoba, second city on the Caminos de Pasión
The next morning, the minibus takes us to Priego de Córdoba, a charming town in the province of Córdoba. This gem of the Subbética region is known for its rich history, Baroque architecture and beautiful natural surroundings.
Before we’re allowed to sit down for breakfast, city guide Lucia leads us through a beautiful part of the city. We walk through elegant streets and beautiful squares full of impressive monuments and fountains. The city is also called the “capital of the Baroque” in Córdoba. Thanks to the abundance of Baroque churches and palaces, we understand why.
After a royal breakfast of the most delicious cheeses and hams at Hostería de Rafi, we resume our already successful city walk. Priego de Córdoba has existed since Roman times. However, Lucia indicates that the town gained significance especially during the Moorish domination from the 8th century onwards. The city flourished under Arab rule and became an important cultural and economic centre. This is still visible in the beautiful architecture and monuments. Like the Alcázar, which we are now passing. After the reconquista in the 13th century, Priego de Córdoba came under Christian rule, but retained much of its Moorish heritage.
We then arrive in a labyrinth of narrow streets with snow-white houses, hung with blooming plants. The particularly picturesque, cobbled streets lead us past beautiful squares and monuments to a magnificent view. Here, on the edge of the historic centre, we have a view of the Sierras Subbéticas: a natural area with rugged limestone mountains, deep gorges and extensive olive groves. What an incredibly nice town Priego de Córdoba is, we decide. We would like to stay here a bit longer, but the next adventure presents itself: our bike ride to Baena.
Baena
In a suburb of Priego de Córdoba, our cycling tour guide José-Luis joins us for the first bike ride. We’re going to do stage 2 of the GR-341. This stage leads through the Sierras Subbéticas nature park. We’re going to make quite a few altitude metres during our ride. But fortunately, sturdy mountain bikes with pedal assistance have been arranged for us. We’re ready for it!
Soon after, we get acquainted with the beautiful landscape of the Sierras Subbéticas. We enjoy the beautiful views of the Sierra Horconera. Here we find limestone ridges and several mountain peaks over 1,000 metres. Such as the Pico la Tiñosa (1,568 m). The area has a rich biodiversity where you can spot griffon vultures, eagles and golden eagles. We especially enjoy the numerous olive groves, the many holm oaks and the unspoilt karst landscape.
Visit to an olive oil producer in Baena
During the last part of our bike ride, the sky starts to cloud over. We had already taken this into account. For that reason, we’re actually even happy that it stayed (partly) sunny for so long. Under an increasingly threatening sky, we approach the town of Baena. From a distance, we can already see the castle of Baena on top of a pointed hilltop. However, our route winds further down the hill to the old, charming town. In Baena, we hand over the bikes to the bike rental company. After this, we visit olive oil producer Núñez de Prado.
We get a tour from the young, new director of the renowned family business. He tells us all about the olive oil production process. Visibly proud of the fully organic olive oil that the family business has been producing for many years, he leads us through the factory. It’s striking that almost all installations, including the huge storage tanks, are hypermodern. This while some steps in the process are still carried out manually. Even the bookkeeping is done without a computer. At the end of the tour, we are served such delicious organic olive oil that we immediately buy several tins as souvenirs.
The rich olive oil tradition of Baena
Although Núñez de Prado is a prominent olive oil producer, the company is certainly not the only one in the region. This area in Andalusia is known for its rich olive oil tradition, which dates back to Roman times. The area enjoys a protected designation of origin (PDO) for its high-quality extra virgin olive oil, mainly produced from the Picuda olive. The mild climate, the calcareous soil and age-old cultivation techniques contribute to the unique taste and quality of the oil. The result, as we have experienced, is olive oil with a fruity aroma and a slightly piquant aftertaste. Delicious!
You can visit several olive oil producers for an interesting visit and a tasting! Do you want to know more about the rich olive oil culture of this region? Then visit the Museo del Olivar y el Aceite. This museum offers a fascinating journey through the history and production of olive oil in the region.
Cabra
In Cabra, the next town on the famous Caminos de Pasión, we have a late lunch. This happens at the extremely charming Círculo de la Amistad de Cabra. This restaurant is located in a historic building complex that was originally a monastery hospital. Our eye is immediately drawn to the patio, which is one of the most beautiful patios in the south of Córdoba. However, the heavens have fully opened up, making a pleasant stay in the patio no longer possible. We therefore seek refuge inside where we enjoy a delicious meal.
Cabra is a beautiful town with a mix of cultural attractions, such as a medieval castle, Baroque churches and the archaeological museum. Cabra is also famous for its gastronomy, particularly the local olive oil and cheese. Partly thanks to the beautiful, natural surroundings, it is an attractive destination for both culture and nature lovers. Unfortunately, we experience little of this. Our bike ride and the tasty visit to the olive oil factory ran out so much that we have to move on again.
Lucena
Lucena, located in the south of the province of Córdoba, is a city rich in history and cultural diversity. Known as the “Pearl of Sepharad”, Lucena was once an important centre of Jewish culture in medieval Spain.
After leaving our luggage at our hotel, city guide Sofia takes us on a journey of discovery. We visit many streets and squares, but also several churches including the Sagrario de la Iglesia de San Mateo. The church is a beautiful example of Baroque architecture, known for its rich decorations and impressive dome. This sanctuary, built in the 18th century, is considered one of the most valuable religious monuments in the province of Córdoba. We find the gilded altarpiece a bit over the top. But together with the detailed frescoes, the church is a good reflection of the grandeur of Spanish Baroque.
Before our dinner, we visit the Castillo del Moral. The robust walls and towers of this impressive medieval fort testify to centuries of strategic importance. Within the walls of this castle, we find the archaeological and ethnological museum of Lucena. The interesting exhibitions highlight the cultural and historical development of the region. Yet the view from one of the towers of the city illuminated in the twilight appeals to us even more.
At the last minute, Sofia tells us about the Necropolis Judía: an important archaeological site with more than 300 Jewish graves dating from the 8th to the 12th century. It is one of the largest and best-preserved medieval Jewish cemeteries in Europe, located just outside the historic centre. Due to time constraints and a strong appetite, we do not visit the cemetery. We say goodbye to Sofia and then let ourselves be well pampered in the cosy restaurant El Patio del Hotel.
Puente Genil
Our next stop is at Puente Genil, or at least close to that city. Puente Genil owes its name to the bridge over the Genil river. The bridge, built in the mid-16th century, played a crucial role in the development of the region. It was a particularly important connection between two different provinces: Córdoba and Seville. The bridge became a symbol of unity, and promoted trade and communication between these areas.
However, one of the most striking features of Puente Genil is its impressive Semana Santa celebration. We are told that the processions in this religious tradition are characterised by the presence of ‘figuras bíblicas’: people dressed as biblical figures. This must surely be a spectacular sight, we think to ourselves. And certainly a good reason to visit Puente Genil during Holy Week.
Our minibus takes us to another interesting location near Puente Genil, the Roman villa Fuente Álamo. This villa rustica, or rural villa, dates from the 3rd and 4th centuries AD and offers a fascinating insight into the life of wealthy Romans on the Iberian Peninsula. Guided by a guide from the associated archaeological museum, we admire the well-preserved mosaic floors. They show beautiful geometric patterns and mythological scenes (like a kind of comic book). We are shown various rooms, including a bathhouse (thermae) and a large communal toilet (without partitions). We find the site very well preserved and therefore certainly a place you must have seen if you are in the area!
End of part 1 along the sights of the Caminos de Pasión
In the footsteps of millions of people over the past six centuries, we cross the Genil in Puente Genil. This marks the end of part 1 of our Caminos de Pasión tour through the provinces of Jaén and Córdoba. Curious about our adventures during part 2 of the Caminos de Pasión through the province of Seville? Then read on quickly.
