Years ago, we embarked on a “Tour de France” with our children in a camper van. During this journey, we visited the summit of Puy de Dôme, a mythical volcano in the Auvergne. We were immediately impressed by this mountain and the volcanic landscape of the region. We knew we wanted to hike there someday! Finally, the opportunity arose. Recently, we explored the Chaîne des Puys, a chain of volcanoes in the Auvergne that strings together natural highlights. The area is ideal for discovering the various volcanoes on foot.

Chaîne des Puys: An introduction

The Chaîne des Puys is located in the Auvergne region of central France. This chain of volcanoes is a remarkable natural wonder. The extensive region consists of about 80 volcanoes, interspersed with crater lakes. The area stretches approximately 40 kilometres, making the Chaîne des Puys an immense natural marvel. It’s no surprise that the area has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 2018.

The volcanoes in the Chaîne des Puys are relatively young in geological terms, with the last eruptions occurring around 7,000 years ago. Although the volcanoes are now dormant, the region has retained an unmistakable beauty. Visitors can enjoy rolling hills, lush forests, and picturesque lakes, creating an impressive landscape.

Clermont-Ferrand: A base for exploring the Chaîne des Puys

We begin our exploration of the Chaîne des Puys not in nature, but in the city. Clermont-Ferrand is the capital of the Puy-de-Dôme department, making it an ideal base for visiting the volcanic region.

Our guide, Océane, takes us around the city, which we only knew as the home of tyre manufacturer Michelin. But there’s more to see than rubber. For example, the Gothic cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption, built entirely from black lava stone—how could it be otherwise in this region? Another sanctuary is the Basilica of Notre-Dame-du-Port. This beautiful Romanesque church from the 12th century is famous for its fine capitals and sculptures and is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Clermont-Ferrand is rich in beautiful mansions, also known as “hôtels particuliers.” They testify to the prosperity and aristocratic life in the city from the 16th to the 19th century. Wealthy nobles, dignitaries, and merchants built the most beautiful city villas, excelling in refined architecture. We are particularly impressed by the splendid staircases found in various mansions. A later blog will delve deeper into the sights of Clermont-Ferrand.

Puy de Dôme: The most famous volcano in the Chaîne des Puys

Where better to start an exploration of the Chaîne des Puys than at Puy de Dôme? This mythical volcanic mountain is also known to cycling enthusiasts for its unique Tour de France stage finishes in the past. It may not be the highest mountain in the volcanic chain, but it is perhaps the most famous.

Our guide, Ben, awaits us at the visitor centre of Puy de Dôme. He is a Mountain Leader and has studied volcanology, an ideal combination to show us the area. We take the train to the top of the volcano. There are also two hiking trails, but we have just too little time for them. Besides, we will be walking quite a bit at the top.

The view from the top is simply magnificent, offering an unparalleled 360-degree panorama. The sun attempts to break through the drizzly weather, allowing us to enjoy the vistas even more.

Throughout the centuries, Puy de Dôme has played an important role in the region. During Roman times, a temple dedicated to Mercury, the Roman god of commerce, stood at the summit. The remains of this temple can still be seen today. Another notable building is the meteorological observatory.

On one of the hills, paragliders prepare for a flight from Puy de Dôme. The leader calls out that he has one spot left. My wife is tempted but decides against it. It would undoubtedly have been an amazing experience to fly over the Chaîne des Puys.

A more detailed blog about Puy de Dôme will follow later.

Volcanic crater Puy de Lemptégy

The Puy de Lemptégy is a unique volcano in the heart of the Chaîne des Puys. Here, we literally journey through the Earth’s crust, as the Puy de Lemptégy offers a rare opportunity to peer deep into the heart of a volcano. Formed by an explosive eruption around 30,000 years ago, this volcano now reveals its secrets at the surface. We see impressive basalt columns, lava flows, and even ancient lava bombs, which have been sculpted into fascinating shapes over time.

A visit to the Puy de Lemptégy is an adventure for everyone. There is the option to take a 30-minute walk around the crater. We then explore the crater with a guided tour on a small train, driving through the heart of the volcano and witnessing the most fascinating colours and shapes within the crater. The subsequent 4D film provides an extra interactive experience. The entire visit to the Puy de Lemptégy, including all its components, takes about 2.5 hours. Afterwards, we enjoy a delicious meal at the restaurant by the crater. We’ve gained a fascinating insight into the primal forces of our planet.

Walk to the summit of Puy de Gouttes

The Puy de Gouttes is a charming and relatively undiscovered volcano in the Chaîne des Puys. With a summit of about 1,146 metres, the Puy de Gouttes is certainly not the highest volcano. However, walking there is pleasant due to the lush greenery covering its slopes.

Our walk is different from those at other volcanoes in several ways. The weather is grey, and there is a dense mist. Additionally, we walk through dense forests on undulating terrain. This volcano is less known than others, as we notice. We encounter only one rider, and otherwise, it is deserted. Our path to the summit is not too strenuous. We walk through wooded areas and then along open fields. At the top of the Puy de Gouttes, you would normally have a stunning view of the Puy de Dôme and other volcanoes of the Chaîne des Puys. Unfortunately, that is not the case today.

Puy de la Vache and Puy de Lassolas

The Puy de la Vache and the Puy de Lassolas are two striking volcanoes in the Chaîne des Puys. They are often mentioned together due to their proximity. These twin volcanoes are thus a popular hiking area.

Puy de la Vache owes its name to the reddish colour of the cinders and volcanic ash covering its slopes, reminiscent of the colour of a cow’s hide. Its neighbour, Puy de Lassolas, has an impressive cone composed of black and red volcanic materials. Together, they form a beautiful contrast with the green landscape of the Auvergne.

We walk the “Circuit des Puys de la Vache et de Lassolas,” a circular walk of about six kilometres that crosses both volcanoes. We start the journey at the car park of the “Maison du Parc Naturel des Volcans d’Auvergne.” From here, the path leads through dense forests and then over the cinder slopes of both volcanoes.

Along the way, we experience the rugged, moon-like landscapes. The climb is relatively short but somewhat steep in places. At the summits of the volcanoes, we are rewarded with breathtaking views over the Chaîne des Puys and the surrounding countryside. Fortunately, the weather is better, allowing us to see far into the distance. We can distinguish various villages in the valleys—a lovely conclusion to a day that began with mist and rain.

For those who prefer a less intensive walk, shorter routes are also available. These, for example, only circle the bases of the volcanoes. Whatever you choose, the Puy de la Vache and the Puy de Lassolas offer ample hiking opportunities.

Puy de Sancy, king of the Chaîne des Puys

Today, the weather is beautiful, with the sun shining brightly. Ideal for climbing the highest peak of the Chaîne des Puys. This time, we do so with our guide Fabrice, who looks like a rock star. He turns out to play in a pop band, which we had not expected otherwise.

The Puy de Sancy rises majestically to 1,886 metres above the Auvergne landscape. This impressive mountain is now a paradise for walkers seeking adventure, fresh mountain air, and breathtaking views. With its jagged peaks, expansive mountain meadows, and hidden waterfalls, the Puy de Sancy offers an unforgettable hiking experience.

Our walk to the summit begins not far from the hotel Le P’tit Cham, where we stayed overnight. From here, we follow part of the GR4 route. It is a picturesque path that winds along babbling mountain streams. It is also a challenging climb. However, the views over deep valleys and the rugged peaks of the Monts Dore make the effort worthwhile. The final metres to the summit are challenging but rewarding. We reach a platform with a panoramic view. We are certainly not alone here. Many walkers and trail runners catch their breath and are enchanted by the magnificent panorama. Not everyone on the platform looks equally athletic. It’s impressive that they made it to the top. Then we discover the gondola that brings many tourists up from the valley in a relaxed manner, which explains it.

Our journey continues along a mountain ridge. It is certainly spectacular. We often have time to look around, as the narrow path is busy. Walkers cross each other on the ridge, which means making room for others to pass. As we get closer to the valley, the crowd gradually disperses. We walk back to our hotel through the rolling valley. It was a strenuous journey, but also one of the most beautiful we have made in the Chaîne des Puys.

Walking in Vallée de Chaudefour

The Vallée de Chaudefour is a hidden gem in the Auvergne. This valley is one of the most beautiful and wild places in the Massif du Sancy. You are surrounded by steep cliffs, towering basalt columns, and lush forests in the valley. It is a protected nature reserve with abundant flora and fauna. You will find rare flowers such as arnica and blue gentian, and chamois and marmots also inhabit the area.

At the Maison de la Réserve, we meet our cheerful guides, Laetitia and Constance. They first lead us around the exhibition. They had a longer walk in mind than we will now undertake. However, the weather has changed, and the rain occasionally pours down. Therefore, we take a short loop through the deserted valley. The further we go, the wilder and more untouched the nature becomes—truly impressive.

From the heart of the valley, three marked walks are available:

• Purple route: Approximately three hours. This easy walk goes through the valley’s floor.
• Blue route: About 2.5 hours to the spectacular La Biche waterfall.
• Yellow walk: Six hours through the valley of the ridges. This is a challenging hike with significant elevation changes, suitable for experienced walkers in good condition.

Although we only see a small part of the valley, it leaves us wanting more, especially due to the enthusiastic guidance of our guides.

Riom, medieval town near the Chaîne des Puys

We conclude our journey in the Auvergne with a visit to one of France’s oldest towns, Riom. With our guide Pascal, we first climb the bell tower. The view is fantastic, despite the less favourable weather. We get a good sense of how the town has developed over the centuries and can distinguish many beautiful buildings. We also visit the Sainte-Chapelle on the edge of the old town, a palatial chapel that was one of the ten holy chapels of France. It is a hidden gem with impressive Gothic stained glass windows and a serene atmosphere. We also see the many elegant mansions from the medieval period, testifying to the town’s prosperity in bygone days.

With this visit, our time in the Chaîne des Puys comes to an end. We have enjoyed wonderful walks and the natural beauty. This region deserves to be visited!

We visited the volcanic region of the Auvergne at the invitation of Auvergne Rhône-Alpes Tourisme, Terra Volcana Tourisme, the departement Puy-de-Dôme, Clermont Auvergne Tourisme, and Massif de Sancy Tourisme. The content of this blog has been independently and objectively compiled based on our own impressions.

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