On our way to sunny southern France, we usually pass by Nancy, a city we previously only knew from road signs on the Route du Soleil. Recently, we took a beautiful and particularly interesting tour through the Mediterranean Provence. For our return journey home, we planned a visit to Nancy, and we’re glad we did because Nancy turned out to be such a charming city that we definitely want to return. In this blog, we explain why.

Brief history of Nancy

To fully enjoy Nancy, it’s helpful to know a bit about its rich history. This history dates back to the 11th century when Gerard of Lorraine built a feudal castle and a walled settlement there. In the 14th century, Nancy grew to become the capital of the Duchy of Lorraine.

In the 15th and 16th centuries, Nancy flourished under the Dukes of Lorraine. The city became a cultural centre and gained a university. In 1477, the Siege of Nancy took place, during which Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, was killed. With the Treaty of Nuremberg in 1542, Lorraine became an independent duchy.

The city was occupied by France several times. In 1733, during the War of the Polish Succession, the duchy was again taken by France. Stanislaus Leszczyński, the last Duke of Lorraine, transformed Nancy by creating monumental squares, including the famous Place Stanislas, which later became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In the 19th century, Nancy remained French, even after the Franco-Prussian War of 1871, while Alsace and the Moselle department were ceded to Germany. The city thrived as a centre of Art Nouveau, with famous artists like Émile Gallé and Louis Majorelle. During the First and Second World Wars, Nancy was heavily affected by bombings and occupations. After World War II, the city remained an important cultural and economic centre in France.

Walking tour of Nancy’s old town

Nancy has so many sights that it’s easy to lose track. Fortunately, the Nancy Tourist Office provides us with two virtual guides: Duke Stanislas and his faithful companion, the dwarf Bébé. The pair accompany us on a free audio tour of Nancy’s historic centre. This journey starts and ends at Place Stanislas, the main square named after our virtual guide. The walking tour includes no less than 25 sights. There are so many that we won’t describe them all here. Instead, we’ll focus on a few that we believe should not be missed during your city visit.

Place Stanislas

Place Stanislas, the main square and architectural showpiece of Nancy, was laid out in the mid-18th century. The square is about twice the size of a football field. It is adorned with magnificent gilded wrought-iron gates, lanterns, and fountains. Place Stanislas serves as the pedestrian heart of Nancy, with lively terraces and atmospheric evening lighting. Together with adjacent squares, it forms a unique 18th-century urban ensemble.

Every summer, a spectacular light show takes place on the square. The show, called “La Belle Saison,” begins as night falls. All the lights on the square go out, followed by a breathtaking 20-minute performance. Five façades of the surrounding buildings serve as a canvas for this truly unique audiovisual experience! We discover this ourselves as we enjoy the spectacle late in the evening with hundreds of others.

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nancy

The Museum of Fine Arts in Nancy is one of France’s oldest and most prestigious museums. The museum is located in one of the splendid buildings on Place Stanislas. The impressive and diverse collection includes artworks by European masters from the 14th to the 21st century, such as Perugino, Caravaggio, Rubens, Delacroix (including his masterpiece “Bataille de Nancy”), Monet, and Picasso.

There is also an extensive collection of Art Nouveau, particularly from the École de Nancy. On the recommendation of the Tourist Office staff, we visit the museum’s basement. Here, a temporary exhibition of glasswork by Émile Gallé and the Daum brothers is on display. We are not usually fans of artistic glasswork, but this collection makes a strong impression on us. Particularly the artwork of glass laundry on a clothesline earns our admiration.

Arc de Triomphe

Our two virtual guides lead us from Place Stanislas into Rue Héré. At the end of the short, elegant street stands a beautiful building. It is the Arc de Triomphe of Nancy, also known as Porte Héré. The impressive monument was built in the mid-18th century in the neoclassical style, commissioned by Duke Stanislas as a tribute to his son-in-law, Louis XV.

The triumphal arch is splendidly decorated with Corinthian columns and rich sculptures. According to our guides, there are two main façades, each with its own theme and symbolism. The western façade (towards Place Stanislas, where we just came from) is dedicated to war and victory. The eastern façade (towards Place de la Carrière) is dedicated to peace and abundance. The Arc symbolises the transition between the royal and civic parts of the city.

Place de la Carrière

We walk under the arch and arrive at Place de la Carrière. This elongated square is one of the most elegant in Nancy. Like Place Stanislas and Place d’Alliance, it is part of the UNESCO World Heritage ensemble of the city centre. The square was originally laid out in the 16th century for knightly tournaments and parades. However, in the 18th century, it was redesigned by order of Stanislas.

We stroll between double rows of linden trees along the green, shady promenade towards the Palais du Gouvernement. On either side of the long square stand elegant, uniform townhouses in a classical style. They are a beautiful example of almost perfectly symmetrical 18th-century architecture and urban planning. We find the square to be a particularly tranquil oasis in the heart of the city.

Parc de la Pépinière

We stroll into Parc de la Pépinière via the picturesque Allée George Chepfer. Affectionately known as “La Pep'” by locals, this park is the green lung of Nancy. Established in 1765 as a nursery for trees destined for Nancy’s avenues, it now boasts over 50 different tree species and numerous flower beds, including a rose garden with hundreds of rose bushes.

Parc de la Pépinière is more than just a city park. It’s a beloved meeting and picnic spot for the residents of Nancy. It also features a small zoo with about 25 animal species, children’s playgrounds, a puppet theatre, and various sports facilities, including tennis courts and a mini-golf course. Additionally, the park has a music pavilion frequently used for concerts. During our visit, an African-themed cultural event with music and drumming catches our attention. We take a look and see several stalls and many visitors dressed in colourful traditional attire. It’s a delightful experience!

The Ducal Palace and the Lorraine Museum

Our city walk takes us past impressive historical buildings, including the Ducal Palace of Nancy, built in the 15th century and expanded in the 18th century. We find the gatehouse particularly beautiful, inspired by the Château de Blois.

In 1848, the Ducal Palace was transformed into the Musée Lorrain, a museum highlighting the rich history of the Lorraine region. The extensive collection covers various periods, featuring Gallo-Roman artefacts, religious sculptures and paintings from the Middle Ages, 14th and 15th-century weapons, and Renaissance artworks.

Porte de la Craffe and Porte de la Citadelle

During our walk, we see several gatehouses, including those of the Ducal Palace and the St. Nicholas Gate, St. George’s Gate, St. Catherine’s Gate, Porte de la Craffe, and Porte de la Citadelle. The last two are significant historical city gates that testify to the city’s rich history.

Porte de la Craffe is the oldest surviving fortification in Nancy, built in the 14th century. It consists of a central square tower flanked by two round towers and served as a prison until the mid-19th century. The Porte de la Citadelle dates from the late 16th century and was part of the city’s defensive expansion.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Annonciation

Most of the sights on the city walk through the old centre are around Place Stanislas or just south of Parc de la Pépinière. For some interesting sights, we venture further south, such as the intimate, cosy Place Charles III, the St. Nicholas Gate, and the Nancy Cathedral.

A visit to the Nancy Cathedral (Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Annonciation) is a must. This 18th-century cathedral is an impressive example of Baroque architecture. The massive Roman Catholic structure is especially known for its magnificent mid-18th-century organ, recognised as a historical monument.

Other attractions in Nancy

On our first day in Nancy, we used a handy app with an audio tour of the historic centre. Most of the sights along the route date from the 18th century or earlier. However, Nancy is also known for its art and Art Nouveau architecture. The “École de Nancy” was a leading force in this style, with renowned artists like Émile Gallé and Louis Majorelle working in Nancy.

Therefore, the last day of our stay in Nancy focused on Art Nouveau buildings, of which there are many! Fortunately, the aforementioned app also offers a special audio tour of 25 Art Nouveau sites. If you’re short on time, be sure to visit these four elegant masterpieces: Villa Majorelle, Musée de l’École de Nancy, Brasserie Excelsior, and the Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Also, wander through Rue Félix Faure, known for its Art Nouveau residential houses with characteristic façades and wrought-iron balconies.

Attractions around Nancy

Nancy offers not only a rich history and cultural treasures but also a range of cycling and walking opportunities. The surrounding nature and varied landscape make it an ideal destination for outdoor enthusiasts. There are excellent cycling options in the expansive Parc Naturel Régional de Lorraine, featuring numerous bike paths through forests, along lakes, and through picturesque villages.

Near Nancy, you can also find the Véloroute Charles le Téméraire, a long-distance cycling route following the historic path of Charles the Bold and running along the Moselle. The section near Nancy offers stunning views of the river landscape and leads through charming villages. Additionally, around Lake Madine, there are various cycling paths with beautiful views of the water and surrounding nature.

We’ll soon write another blog about our cycling trip around Nancy.

We visited Nancy and the surrounding area at the invitation of Atout France, DESTINATION NANCY – Office de Tourisme, the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nancy, and the Mercure Nancy Centre Place Stanislas hotel. The content of this blog has been independently and objectively compiled based on our own impressions.

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