Highlights of the Caminos de Pasión | Part 2
Highlights of the Caminos de Pasión | Part 2
The second and final part of our journey along the Caminos de Pasión takes us through the province of Seville. We start just across the Genil river, cycling towards Osuna. We then visit the particularly charming cities of Écija and Carmona before concluding our journey of discovery in Utrera.
Part 2 of our tour along the highlights of the Caminos de Pasión
As soon as we cross the bridge at Puente de Genil, we pass the provincial border of Córdoba with Seville. Here, our cycling guide José-Luis is already waiting for us with the e-bikes. We then prepare for stage 7 of the GR-341. Unfortunately, the weather is not on our side: it’s already drizzling before we mount our steel steeds. But as we reach the Sierra de Gilena a little later, we only have eyes for our surroundings.
This relatively unknown mountain range offers a varied natural landscape that is characteristic of the Mediterranean mountain area. We find a mix of holm oaks, cork oaks and pine trees, interspersed with open areas of shrubs. On an information board, we read that the fauna here is rich in bird species, including birds of prey such as the golden eagle and the griffon vulture. Mammals such as foxes and Iberian ibexes make their home here. Various reptile species also occur, such as the horseshoe whip snake and the ladder snake. The area is also popular among cyclists thanks to the many well-accessible routes.
Osuna
Stage 7 of the Caminos de Pasión leads us to Osuna, a historic city rich in culture and architecture. Like many cities in this region, the history of Osuna dates back to Roman times. It was then called Urso. The city flourished under Moorish rule and later became an important cultural and educational centre under the rule of the Dukes of Osuna. The highlight of that period was the establishment of the University of Osuna in the 16th century.
Our city guide Ana leads us through the cobbled, picturesque streets to one of the absolute highlights of the city: the Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. This church is an impressive example of Renaissance architecture in Andalusia. The 16th-century church, built on the orders of the Dukes of Osuna, impresses with its majestic façade and beautiful retables (altarpieces). Ana tells us that the church has previously been on the verge of collapse. Generous contributions from wealthy families in the area have made the renovation and reinforcement of the building possible. Ana assures us that the church is now safely accessible again.
What we are even more impressed by, however, is the burial chapel of the Dukes of Osuna. The chapel, which was exclusively accessible to the dukes, has a beautifully decorated ceiling and an extensive collection of religious art. It immediately becomes clear to us that the noble family who had the chapel built not only had religious devotion, but also power and enormous wealth.
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Game of Thrones filming location |
Écija
Our next stop is Écija. This city has no less than three nicknames: “City of the Sun”, “Frying Pan of Andalusia” (due to the high temperatures in summer) and “City of Towers”. Today, the city certainly doesn’t live up to its first two nicknames. Upon arrival in the city, it’s raining and chilly. However, the cityscape of Écija confirms the third nickname: an impressive collection of Baroque church towers awaits us. These towers, which are often decorated with colourful azulejos (ceramic tiles), offer a unique panorama that dominates the city’s skyline.
Mercedes, our city guide in Écija, briefs us on the history of the city. In Roman times, the city was known as Astigi. At that time, it was an important centre for olive oil production. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Écija came under Visigothic and later Moorish rule. During the Reconquista, the city was recaptured by Ferdinand III of Castile in 1240. In the following centuries, Écija flourished as an important cultural and economic centre. This resulted in the construction of beautiful Baroque churches and palaces.
Despite the rain, we enjoy every step we take in this city. Écija is incredibly beautiful! Mercedes leads us along many beautiful sights. In our opinion, two of these should definitely not be missed during your visit to Écija: the Palacio de Peñaflor and the Iglesia de los Descalzos.
Palacio de Peñaflor
The Palacio de Peñaflor is a Baroque city palace from the 18th century. The palace was owned by the Peñaflor family until 1958 and was then used for various purposes. In 1992, it was bought by the municipality of Écija and underwent extensive restoration. The palace is characterised by an impressive façade with long balconies (hence the nickname Palace of the Long Balconies). Once inside the palace gate, we find a central courtyard with marble columns and a fountain. We also admire the richly decorated interiors with frescoes and stucco work, and the incredibly beautiful stables. Nowadays, the palace is partially open to the public and serves as a cultural centre.
Iglesia de los Descalzos
The Church of the Immaculate Conception is a former monastery church of Discalced Carmelites (“Los Descalzos”) from the early 17th century. After being closed for 30 years, the church underwent a thorough restoration between 2006 and 2009. This restoration included structural repairs and the renovation of the rich interior, including stucco work, altarpieces and liturgical objects. The project won several awards and has restored the church to one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in the province of Seville. We can only agree with this. The decorations are so colourful and refined that we can’t take enough photos.
Carmona
The next morning, we set course for Carmona, the ninth city on the Caminos de Pasión. Here we also have our breakfast at Parador de Carmona. Although the dining room looks somewhat sober, we find the hotel itself very beautiful. But what makes the parador extra special is the panorama: like the city of Carmona, the hotel is located on the Alcores ridge. From this ridge, you have a stunning view over the fertile plain of the Guadalquivir river.
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Paradores |
In Carmona, our guide Almudena welcomes us. As she guides us through the historic centre, we are told that the history of Carmona dates back to the Phoenicians. The city later became an important Roman stronghold. Under Moorish rule, Carmona was further fortified with walls and palaces. After a period as an independent taifa kingdom in the 11th century, the city was conquered by Ferdinand III of Castile in 1247. Through the centuries, the city remained an important agricultural centre, with an economy based on large landholdings.
The many sights of Carmona
In Carmona, we can easily entertain ourselves for a day, so many special sights await us. Along these sights are various ‘rutas turísticas’, city walks set out by the Carmona Tourist Office. For example, you pass the Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción. This church, built on the site of a former mosque, is a beautiful example of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Another sight is the Roman Necropolis which, like the amphitheatre, testifies to Carmona’s Roman past.
In addition, the city is characterised by several other churches, such as San Pedro, San Bartolomé and San Felipe, each with their own architectural and historical value. The Puerta de Córdoba is an old city gate that forms an impressive entrance to the old city. The town hall and the Plaza de Abastos, the old marketplace, are also important sights that reflect the rich culture and history of Carmona.
Alcázar de la Puerta de Sevilla
Accompanied by Almudena, we visit some of the aforementioned sights. But the highlight of our visit to Carmona is undoubtedly the Alcázar de la Puerta de Sevilla. This defensive complex combines elements from different eras, including Roman, Moorish and medieval architecture. It originally served as an important gateway to the city and was later expanded into a fort. From the top, we have a beautiful view over the city and the surrounding plains of Andalusia.
Utrera
The last city on our itinerary is Utrera. The weather has cleared up quite a bit in the meantime. We can’t wait to visit the charming town. Isabel, our guide in Utrera, then picks us up and leads us further into the historic centre. We arrive in a labyrinth of narrow streets and squares, lined with whitewashed houses and impressive churches.
One of the sights where we linger a bit longer is the Museo Hospital de la Santa Resurrección. This museum is housed in a historic hospital that was founded in 1514 by Catalina de Perea. The complex, which still functions as a nursing home, includes a museum that contains valuable works of art. Such as Baroque altarpieces and 16th-century sculptures. The combination of architecture, art and social history makes it a fun and interesting museum.
We then visit one of the many patisseries where we taste the delicious ‘Mostachon de Utrera’ (a kind of sponge cake). After that, we visit the Parroquia de Santiago el Mayor. This 14th-century parish church is an important example of religious architecture in the city. We don’t stay too long because, with the sunny weather at the moment, we prefer to be outside. Fortunately, there’s still time to admire the castle of Utrera as well.
This castle is an impressive remnant from the Moorish period. It was built in the 13th century as a defensive stronghold. Since then, the castle has undergone various adaptations and restorations. Only part of the original structure has been preserved. We can’t go inside anywhere so we wander around it a bit and thoroughly enjoy a beautiful sunset. A worthy farewell to a special journey along the ten cities of the Caminos de Pasión.
Highlights of the Caminos de Pasión – our findings
We discovered that a journey along the Caminos de Pasión is a great way to experience the real Andalusia. We found it particularly enjoyable because we have now gotten to know an authentic part of this beautiful region. During our journey, we were immersed in the rich culture, history and traditions of the Andalusian interior. We tasted delicious local dishes, admired centuries-old architecture and enjoyed the warm hospitality of the local population.
We made this trip at the invitation of the Spanish Tourist Board. This offered us the chance to form a good impression of the many sights along the Caminos de Pasión in a short time. But in our opinion, a midweek is far too short to optimally enjoy what this part of Andalusia has to offer. For this reason, we advise you to set aside a good week to two weeks for the Caminos de Pasión. Namely a week if you travel by (rental) car and certainly two weeks if you do the route by bicycle.
