Is it wise to revisit a place where you have fond memories? In 2013, I hiked the GR10 for a month with a good friend. I experienced this classic route in the French Pyrenees as a live event. One of the most beautiful sections was the trail from Mérens les Vals to Lac de Bouillouses, particularly impressive due to the snow that year, which covered a large part of the valley well into June. We walked for a day over a thick blanket of snow, searching for the right path.
Today, I am walking the same route on the same day in June, this time with my wife. However, the surroundings are devoid of the thick snow. The question is: is it wise to want to relive such a good memory?
On the way to Lac de Bouillouses
It takes a bit of time to get there, but it’s worth it. You should view the journey to this destination as a delightful adventure. If you arrive from the north, the road takes a large detour towards Andorra before bending back to the destination.
Coming from Perpignan, you’ll enjoy a beautiful route through a stunning valley. You also pass several interesting places, such as the fortified town of Villefranche-de-Conflent. This UNESCO World Heritage site has been declared one of the most beautiful villages in France (“les plus beaux villages de France”).
As we arrive by car at our hotel next to the large mountain lake, we have already enjoyed the breathtaking surroundings along the way. The sparkling streams beside the road, the fields of yellow gorse, and the view of the Carlit massif contribute to this beauty.
The hotel is splendidly situated at an altitude of 2000 metres next to the large reservoir. And as if memories only resurface under certain conditions, I recognise the man behind the reception desk from my first visit. The rooms are just as they were back then, with thin walls and a private shower/toilet—a luxury at this height. Thankfully, not everything has changed.
Revisiting the GR10 towards Mérens les Vals
The hike we are undertaking here follows the GR10 in a westerly direction. This Grand Randonnée runs past the hotel, so we are right in the perfect spot. We walk into the valley towards Mérens les Vals. It’s a stage with limited ascents and descents, and you can walk as far as you wish. The return journey is, of course, in the opposite direction, making it a there-and-back walk.
The first part of the route runs alongside the large Lac de Bouillouses, a reservoir with a massive dam. You can walk around the lake in 3.5 hours. We choose the western side of the lake and walk here on a gently ascending, well-maintained path. Do watch out for the roots of the pine trees that crisscross the path. There are stunning views over the lake, but be careful not to trip over those stumps while admiring the scenery.
After about 45 minutes, we pass a meadow with cows and enter the valley. In the middle of this valley flows a river that drains the water from the surrounding mountains. You regularly cross streams and waterfalls, all surrounded by large quantities of gorse, which colour entire slopes yellow. We also see gentians, which my partner says indicates a healthy climate.
Birds flit back and forth, and we hear the alarm call of a marmot. Spotting one is quite tricky. My partner eventually ‘catches’ one with the telephoto lens. The animal stands perfectly still on a rock. The surroundings are breathtakingly beautiful, and the experience from 11 years ago is fully honoured.
Turning back offers a different perspective on Lac de Bouillouses
We walk for about two hours before reaching the first snow. It’s challenging for me, but we decide to turn back. My wife isn’t feeling entirely fit, and we face a steep climb ahead. Additionally, on this sunny morning, some clouds are starting to gather. The weather can change quickly.
On the way back, we experience the same valley but from the opposite perspective. It’s by no means a punishment, as the surroundings give the feeling of walking in a classic mountain landscape, like those seen in jigsaw puzzles.
However, we do encounter a dissonance: helicopters frequently fly through the valley. According to a fellow hiker, there’s a school for helicopter pilots nearby, and they conduct training flights here. It’s incomprehensible to disrupt such a beautiful piece of nature in this way. And as it often goes with memories, this was also the case back then. We just thought they were searching for a lost hiker.
The clouds clear, and we decide to walk a short stretch of the alternative route indicated at the beginning of the valley. I find it difficult to leave this place. But my partner is running low on energy, so we walk back at a leisurely pace.
Upon arriving at the mountain hotel, we enjoy a (non-alcoholic) beer and let our legs rest. What remains is the affirmation of the beauty of this route.
Short walk “La Pradella” to a tranquil lake
The GR10 in an easterly direction leads us to La Pradella. This walk takes us to a stunning lake in 45 minutes. The path mainly traverses grassland, and you’ll encounter several grazing cows. They don’t bother us; they are clearly accustomed to hikers. We pass various streams and brooks, and sometimes a little jump is needed to keep our feet dry.
Once we arrive at the lake, we check out the shelter that stands there. You can stay overnight for free. The space is dark and smells of charred wood—not exactly a comfortable spot. But in case of emergency… The lake itself attracts fishermen, as it turns out. Both human and animal, as a seagull is also busy foraging. It’s a lovely place to take a moment to absorb the surroundings.
We return to the starting point via a path at the foot of the lake. It’s a pleasant walk through open fields. Horses with large bells around their necks roam here, feasting on the lush mountain grass. It’s nice to walk relaxed without worrying about where to place your feet.
The journey along the nine lakes
It’s almost a rule when hiking a GR route that you tend to continue along that path, even when the surroundings invite you to stay. You might overlook other walks, even if they look appealing. I experienced this with a hike that starts next to our mountain hotel. Now, it’s time for a do-over.
The only downside is that I don’t feel very fit this morning. I’m not sure why, but sometimes the only way to see if hiking will work is to just give it a go. Fortunately, it turns out well. As the hike progresses, which starts with a steep climb over rocky terrain, I begin to perk up. In fact, I feel increasingly better and can fully enjoy the surroundings, which are truly breathtaking.
The beauty of this walk is that you encounter several small lakes in a relatively short time of three hours. Each has its own character and, of course, is located in a different spot, making for a wonderfully varied trek. The rocky path is well passable, but it can be quite tricky in wet weather. Today, the sun is shining brightly, and we have no issues with slippery stones.
On this Saturday, it’s a well-trodden path. It’s possible that a race is taking place today. Super sporty individuals are conquering the mountains at a fast pace. The lovely thing is that they still have time to greet us with a polite “bonjour” as they pass…
If you want to extend the hike, you can opt to climb the Carlit, which adds another two hours to your time. We choose the circular walk around the mountain lakes, which is perfect for a picnic by one of the lakes. In short, you can easily spend an entire day here; the surroundings are ideal for it.
What was it like to hike at Lac de Bouillouses again?
We treat ourselves by ordering a “plank” for lunch on the terrace of our hotel after the hike. The images of this stunning environment have been refreshed. Eleven years ago, there was snow; now, flowers and greenery dominate. It remains an enchanting place that justifies a two-night stay in the area. There’s absolutely no regret. So many years later, it has become a shared experience with my wife.
Practical information for a hike at Lac de Bouillouses
From Perpignan, you can reach this hiking area in just under two hours by car. Take the D66 towards Prades (a beautiful route) and then exit onto the D60. It’s just under 100 kilometres from Perpignan. There is ample parking available at the top.
A pleasant hotel where we stayed is Les Bones Hores. Half board costs around €60.00 per person. Alternatively, there is the Auberge du Carlit. You can also camp in this area, either at the refuge next to the Auberge or freely in the fields.
The overnight stays at the mentioned hotels can be combined with half board or dinner. You can also join for dinner at the hotels. The food is well-prepared but simple. If you prefer to prepare your own meals, be sure to bring your own food, as there are no shops in the area.
There are relatively many parking spaces available. The hotels also have their own designated parking areas. Additionally, there are spots for campervans.
You can find more information about Lac de Bouillouses on the Pyrénées Cerdagne Tourism website.
