Madeira is renowned for its impressive nature, rugged mountains, and lush forests. One of the most beautiful ways to explore the island is via the levadas. These irrigation channels run across the landscape in nearly all of Madeira. Today, we choose the Levada do Rei. The hike takes us through an enchanting green setting, along babbling brooks and dense laurel forests. It’s a journey full of natural beauty and tranquillity.
What are levadas?
Levadas are inextricably linked with Madeira. They are centuries-old irrigation channels that run like veins through the landscape. They bring water from the rainy north side of the island to the drier south side. These narrow irrigation channels have been in use since the 16th century. These clever constructions ensure that agricultural land remains fertile. At the same time, the paths along the levadas form a paradise for hikers. A great advantage is that the routes are relatively flat. As a result, the levada walks are accessible to almost every hiker.
The Levada do Rei, or the ‘King’s Levada’, is one of the many beautiful levada walks on Madeira. Perhaps the name refers to King D. Carlos I, who reigned in the late 19th century. But it could also simply be a symbol of the grandeur of nature here. Either way, the Levada do Rei bears its name with honour. This route takes us through the unique Laurissilva forest. Here, we feel the natural beauty of the island at its best. This area is even on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The Levada do Rei in trainers
How foolish can I be? For the trip to Madeira, I didn’t bring my hiking boots. While I always emphasise in my blogs to be well-prepared and to go out with the right footwear. So here I am at the start of the Levada do Rei with snow-white trainers. They also have little tread.
Guide Ruben from Adventure Kingdom looks at me sympathetically. “Do you want to walk the trail in these? Your shoes will be brown with mud afterwards. And you’ll have little grip on the slippery parts. Hopefully, you have good balance. Because on some narrow sections, it will be challenging with those shoes”. When I also mention that my sense of balance isn’t very good, he knows enough. “I’ll have to give you a hand regularly for support. Otherwise, you’ll end up in the water.” I know one thing for sure: I’ll never forget my hiking boots again when I go on a trip.
The Levada do Rei hike begins
We start the hike in the small village of São Jorge, on the north side of the island. Buying a ticket is now mandatory. The costs are reasonable (€3 was the price at the end of 2024). The entrance fee is intended to regulate visitor flows. But mainly to be able to maintain these hiking trails and channels.
We have another cup of coffee in the café at the starting point. Then it’s time to depart. At the information board, Ruben explains what awaits us. We walk the first metres on a wide path. The air is fresh and filled with the scent of damp earth and ferns. Soon we dive deeper into nature. The levada winds its way through the landscape and we faithfully follow it. We don’t need directions for the right route. Simply follow the path along the narrow channel. Can’t miss it.
Gradually, the path narrows and the vegetation becomes denser. Above us, trees bend their branches towards each other, as if forming a green tunnel. Occasionally, we walk through an actual tunnel in the rock face. The sound of flowing water constantly accompanies us. The humid climate creates moss-covered rocks and many unique ferns. This is Madeira at its most beautiful.
The path is very muddy in some parts. The ground in this forest is quite damp anyway. This morning’s rain shower has made it even wetter. At first, I try to spare my shoes, but it’s a hopeless task. They slowly but surely turn into the reddish-brown colour of mud. I wonder how I’ll ever get them clean again.
Highlights of the Levada do Rei
During our hike, we enjoy the small and large natural wonders around us. Here are a few highlights that make the Levada do Rei so special:
Laurissilva forest
The Laurissilva forest is a unique ecosystem that’s on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Dense mist hangs between the ancient laurel trees. Ferns and mosses cover the ground. We feel like we’re in a fairy tale. The forest is crucial for Madeira because it retains water.
We discover that the Laurisilva forest is more than just a forest. It’s a living museum with special plants and rare animals. Guide Ruben regularly shows us rare plants that grow here. Some species only occur in this forest. We walk through this ancient forest and feel the connection with nature. Each step brings new discoveries.
Waterfalls
Along the route, we encounter various waterfalls that tumble down along the path. The water dances and glistens in the sunlight. The soft rustle fills the air with a soothing sound. We see how the water makes its way over the rocks and how it gathers in small pools. Sometimes the water seeps quietly along the rocks, sometimes it clatters down with force. Occasionally we even have to walk through the water for a bit. That only makes the adventure more fun.
Panoramic views
The route mostly goes through dense forest. Yet beautiful views of the valley below open up from time to time. On clear days, even the ocean is visible in the distance. Today we only catch a glimpse of the sea. However, we can clearly distinguish São Jorge and the agricultural lands around Santana.
The source of the Levada do Rei
After about an hour and a half, we reach the source of the Levada do Rei in Ribeiro Bonito. Here springs the water that we have been following all this time. We are face to face with the origin of the levada. The crystal-clear water emerges from the rocks.
The sound of the flowing water is even more intense deep in the Laurissilva forest. We feel the power of nature around us. The water gathers in a small pool, surrounded by lush vegetation. Via a small waterfall, it reaches the levada. From there it flows more than five kilometres downwards.
At this spot, we take the time to take in the natural beauty. Then it’s time to start the return journey. The route back follows the same path as the outward journey. Yet that’s not boring. From a different angle, we notice new things again.
Cleaning shoes after the Levada do Rei
Finally, after about 3.5 hours, we reach São Jorge again. Thanks to the help of guide Ruben, I fortunately didn’t slip anywhere. We have enjoyed a beautiful levada walk. Before we drive back to Funchal, we have another cup of coffee in the small café.
In the toilet, I try to somewhat tidy up my shoes with some toilet paper. It’s a hopeless task, I can hardly get the mud off. More is needed than just a roll of paper. Fortunately, I can get better supplies at the hotel. That way I manage to get the shoes reasonably clean again. They’re ready for another levada walk!
Other beautiful levada walks
The Levada do Rei is just one of the many beautiful levada walks on Madeira. If you feel like more after this tour, here are a few recommendations:
- Levada das 25 Fontes. A popular walk that runs through dense forests and along dozens of small waterfalls. The route ends at the famous 25 springs. There, water flows down from different directions into a natural basin.
- Levada do Caldeirão Verde. An adventurous route with spectacular views and an impressive cave. Here you walk through a narrow gorge to eventually arrive at a high waterfall. This route feels like a true expedition through the jungle.
- Levada dos Cedros. This Levada dos Cedros runs through dense laurel forests and along crystal-clear water channels. The levada offers a quiet and picturesque route. The tour owes its name to the many cedars that grow in the area.
On the Madeira website, you can find an overview of all hiking possibilities on the island. There is also a handy brochure ‘Walks in Madeira’. You can obtain this brochure at the tourist information offices on Madeira.
Answers to practical questions about the Levada do Rei hike
From the start in Sao Jorge, it’s 5.3 kilometres to the source of the Levada. Then you have to walk back the same way. In total, the distance is thus 10.6 kilometres. Most hikers take about 3 to 3.5 hours for the entire route.
The starting point of the Levada do Rei is in São Jorge, at the so-called Wastewater Treatment Plant. You can only get here by car. There is a small car park.
No, in itself it’s not a difficult hike. The height difference during the route is limited. The path is only slightly undulating. However, the weather conditions and the humid ecosystem in the forest result in a muddy and slippery surface. On some sections, the path is very narrow. Also, a shallow pool must be crossed via a number of flat stones. If you have a less good sense of balance, a helping hand is very welcome there.
Yes, a small entrance fee is due to be allowed to walk the Levada do Rei. You can find the current rate of the Levada do Rei on this website. It’s best to buy your ticket online in advance.
At the starting point of the route is a small café where you can buy some things. You won’t encounter anything along the way.
Waterproof hiking boots with a good tread! A rain jacket is handy, as it’s humid in the Laurissilva forest. Also, you have to walk behind a cascading waterfall once. Walking sticks are not really necessary.
There are many more beautiful levada walks possible on Madeira. You can find more information on the official Madeira website. Or make sure you get the ‘Walks in Madeira’ brochure, which also lists many walks. You can get this at the tourist information offices on Madeira.
At the invitation of Madeira Promotion Bureau, we visited the beautiful island and made this levada walk among others. We have compiled the content of the blog independently and objectively based on our own impressions.
