North of Linz lies the Mühlviertel region. Here, it is not the Danube that dominates but the green hills. Agriculture is practised with a particular focus on herbs and hops. The area around Freistadt is known as the largest producer of hops in Austria. And when you mention hops, you think of beer—beer that is eagerly consumed by both locals and tourists. We visited Freistadt and made a remarkable discovery.
Freistadt, medieval brewing town in the Mühlviertel region
You can’t miss it when you enter Freistadt: the brewery of this town. Emerging from the many residents who practised brewing, a unique situation developed here in the distant past. The 149 houses in the old town formed a ‘brewing commune’. Collectively, the residents own the brewery. In 1777, a large building was erected, from which Freistadt beer evolved into a serious enterprise. If you buy a house in the old town, a partial ownership right to the brewery is attached to it.
During a visit to the brewery, the process of beer-making and its history are explained. Regular exhibitions are held on the first floor of the beautiful building. The brewery has a lovely courtyard or ‘biergarten’ where you can relax. It’s a delightful excursion!
Of course, we are also curious about the town itself. The brewery is located just outside the city wall that encloses the centre of the old town. Through an access gate, we find our way to the medieval centre. We hear music and come across a parade featuring a brass band in splendid costumes. The town itself is charming and authentic, as if time has stood still. There are lovely shops, a beautiful square, old houses in good condition, and limited tourism.
The herb fields of Mühlviertel near Hirschbach im Mühlkreis
A little to the west of Freistadt lies an area with a different agricultural focus. A collective of 80 farmers produces herbs here and markets the products under the company name Berg. The Berg sales outlet is located on the route from Freistadt to Bad Leonfelden. The herb fields are surrounded by beautiful meadows filled with wildflowers. The area invites you to take a walk along these fields. They operate organically, with a focus on nature. In the Berg shop, you can discover and purchase a variety of products.
For lunch, we visit the restaurant Krauterwirt Dunziger. Upon arrival, we find a large number of guests. First communions are taking place today, celebrated with a festive meal afterwards. Fortunately, we made a reservation… Asparagus features prominently on the menu at this time, as does ‘schweinebraten’. We thoroughly enjoy our meal.
The Herbalix Nature & Experience Trail, a herbal journey
To conclude the day, we take a walk along the Herbalix Nature & Experience Trail. This route, lasting about an hour, provides information about various herbs. The trail starts uphill on a paved path. On the way back down, you walk along unpaved paths and grassland. Do be cautious of ticks, as they may be present in the tall grass. It’s a pleasant walk in a beautiful rural setting.
FAQs about the Mühlviertel Region in Upper Austria
The federal state of Upper Austria is situated between Salzburg and Vienna. The Mühlviertel region lies to the northeast of Linz, the capital of Upper Austria.
The best way to reach the Mühlviertel region is via the city of Linz. You can also fly to Salzburg and then take the train to Linz. Alternatively, you can travel by train.
From Linz, it’s best to drive to Freistadt or Hirschbach im Mühlkreis. Freistadt is also accessible by public transport from Linz. The most enjoyable way to explore the Mühlviertel region is by bike, taking a tour through the various towns.
The Mühlviertel region is excellent for cycling, whether on a regular or electric bike. There is an extensive cycling network with plenty of charging points for electric bikes. Additionally, you can enjoy beautiful hikes in this region. A visit to the Freistadt brewery is also worthwhile, and the herbal walk in Hirschbach is a lovely activity.
The best locations for accommodation in the Mühlviertel region can be found in Freistadt. A unique experience awaits you at the design hotel Freigold in Freistadt. This hotel, which has an excellent restaurant, features an extensive wellness area with fitness facilities and a spectacular swimming pool on the ninth floor, offering views over the surrounding area. Be sure to check the overview of other good hotels in Freistadt and the Mühlviertel region.
In Freistadt:
- The restaurant of hotel Freigold on the 10th floor, offering innovative dishes
- Other good restaurants in Freigold
In Hirschbach:
You can find more information about the Mühlviertel region at www.muehlviertel-almfreistadt.at. For information about Upper Austria, visit www.upperaustria.com/en.
