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Périgord Noir: paradise in southwestern France

Périgord Noir: paradise in southwestern France

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Périgord Noir is the best-known area of the Dordogne in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. This area in southwestern France offers everything that makes a holiday complete: rolling hills, picturesque villages, medieval castles, unique prehistoric caves, and gastronomic specialties. In this blog, we will guide you through the highlights of Périgord Noir.

Dordogne river

Sights to see in Périgord Noir

This region in Dordogne has a lot to offer. Whether you are a fan of prehistoric caves, medieval castles, or picturesque villages, there is plenty to see and do for everyone.

Most beautiful villages of Périgord Noir

Here are four of the most picturesque villages that you absolutely must not miss: Sarlat-la-Canéda, La Roque-Gageac, Domme, and Beynac-et-Cazenac.

Panorama

Sarlat-la-Canéda

Sarlat-la-Canéda, often simply called Sarlat, is a beautiful medieval town that stands out for its well-preserved architecture. Stroll through the narrow streets, admire the impressive mansions, and enjoy the lively market full of local products. Sarlat is a perfect blend of history and conviviality, and serves as an ideal base for your explorations in Périgord Noir.

The medieval centre is not large, but it is a sight to behold. Especially if you take the panoramic lift in the bell tower of a former church. From the top, you can enjoy the cobblestone streets and the historic buildings. Since 2000, this former church has been home to the city’s covered market. Pay special attention to the immense 15-metre-high steel doors of the building!

We now understand why so many famous films have been shot in the centre of Sarlat. The atmosphere in the town is amazing. Especially in the evening when the street lights are on. The unique gas lamps then give even more the feeling of having landed in the Middle Ages. We will later come up with a detailed blog about Sarlat.

Evening in Sarlat

La Roque-Gageac

La Roque-Gageac is picturesquely situated on the Dordogne River. It seems as if the village is completely stuck to the rocks. This charming village is one of the ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France‘ (The Most Beautiful Villages of France). It offers a spectacular view and unique architecture.

The linear village is not large. With an hour’s walk, you can discover all the sights. From the higher part of the route, behind the buildings, you have a beautiful panorama of the surroundings. In addition, the exotic gardens stand out. Thanks to the microclimate caused by the rocks, there are flowers, plants, and trees that you would find in more southern regions. Furthermore, the tower, the church, and the fort stand out. It is definitely worth taking the stairs to Fort Troglodytique. The fortification is now a museum. Additionally, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the village and the river.

Rogue Gageac

Domme

A ‘bastide’ is a French medieval town, founded in the 13th and 14th centuries. Characteristic is the rectangular street pattern around the central market square of the town. The place Domme is a typical example of a bastide.

Located on a hilltop, Domme also offers such a beautiful view of the Dordogne Valley. The ramparts and gates are reminiscent of a rich past. The narrow streets and squares exude a relaxed atmosphere. Do not forget to visit the caves under the market square. There, you can admire fascinating rock formations.

Domme

Beynac-et-Cazenac

Beynac-et-Cazenac is also one of ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’ (The Most Beautiful Villages of France). Beynac-et-Cazenac is famous for its imposing castle that towers high above the Dordogne. You can read more about this in this blog. The winding streets of the village lead you past beautiful old houses and charming squares.

Beynac

Impressive castles of Périgord Noir

The region boasts various castles. These are, in our opinion, the most beautiful:

Château de Castelnaud

The Château de Castelnaud is one of the most impressive medieval castles in the region. Since its construction in the 12th century, this castle has endured a tumultuous history of wars and sieges, especially during the Hundred Years’ War between France and England. Castelnaud was under English control, while the nearby Château de Beynac fell under French authority. This naturally led to conflicts and battles.

The castle houses an extensive collection of medieval weapons and armor. The exhibitions are informative and well-presented, providing a deep insight into the military history and techniques of the Middle Ages.

One of the castle’s greatest attractions is the panoramic view over the Dordogne Valley. From the castle’s towers and walls, you have a spectacular view of the surrounding hills, forests, and the winding river. This alone makes a visit worthwhile.

Castle Castelnaud

Château de Beynac

The Château de Beynac is one of the best-preserved and most impressive castles in Périgord Noir. This medieval structure dates back to the 12th century. The Barons of Beynac built it as a defensive stronghold against rival noble families.

A visit to the castle begins with a steep climb to the entrance, where you already catch a glimpse of the impressive panorama over the river and the surrounding landscape. Once inside, you are immersed in the medieval atmosphere. The thick stone walls, arrow slits, and imposing keep bear witness to the castle’s military function. The great hall, with its enormous fireplace and Gothic windows, is one of the highlights of the interior.

One of the most breathtaking aspects of Château de Beynac is the panoramic view from the ramparts. From these strategic vantage points, you can look out over the Dordogne Valley for miles. A few kilometers away, you can see the Château de Castelnaud.

Beynac castle

Château de Biron

The impressive Château de Biron is situated on a hill in the Dordogne. You can see it from afar. The castle has a rich history. From the 12th century to the 18th century, the castle was expanded over time. It was owned by the Gontaut-Biron family from the 12th century until the early 20th century. Throughout the centuries, it was conquered several times by rival factions.

As soon as you enter the castle, you feel the rich history. Walk through the grand halls and admire the beautiful architecture. The towers offer a breathtaking view of the surrounding landscape.

Biron castle

Marqueyssac Gardens: Highlight of Périgord Noir

The Marqueyssac Gardens are among the most beautiful and romantic gardens in France. They offer a combination of natural beauty, artistic garden architecture, and spectacular panoramas.

The gardens are famous for their over 150,000 perfectly pruned boxwood bushes. These bushes are trimmed into imaginative shapes, creating a fairytale landscape. From various points in the gardens, you have breathtaking views of the Dordogne Valley, the picturesque village of La Roque-Gageac, and the surrounding castles.

We spent hours wandering around the Marqueyssac Gardens. For us, this visit was the highlight of Périgord Noir. That’s why we will soon write a detailed blog about it.

Marqeuyssac

Most beautiful prehistoric caves of Périgord Noir

The region has many caves. For us, these two places stand out:

Lascaux Caves

The Lascaux Caves were discovered in 1940 by four teenagers. They stumbled upon the cave entrance near Montignac. The discovery of these caves caused a sensation in the archaeological world because of the exceptional state of the prehistoric artworks. The cave paintings date back approximately 17,000 years. It is likely that the Cro-Magnon people lived in the caves. They belonged to the prehistoric early modern humans.

One of the most impressive parts of the cave is the Hall of the Bulls. This large chamber is famous for its monumental rock paintings of bulls, horses, and deer. The bulls are particularly striking, with some measuring up to 5.5 meters long. The dynamism and details of these artworks are stunning and provide a vivid picture of animal life in prehistory. We will provide a more detailed blog about the Lascaux Caves soon.

Lascaux

Grotte du Grand Roc

The Grotte du Grand Roc is located in the picturesque village of Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil. A local geologist, Jean Maury, discovered the cave in 1924. The cave offers visitors a fascinating glimpse of the underground wonders of the region.

One of the biggest attractions of the Grotte du Grand Roc is the incredible collection of stalactites and stalagmites. These limestone formations create an enchanting underground world. The stalactites hang like icicles from the ceiling, while the stalagmites grow upwards from the cave floor.

Unique to the cave are the helictites. These rare and whimsical limestone formations grow in all directions, defying the laws of gravity. In the cave, you will also find beautiful crystal formations, including aragonite and calcite crystals that sparkle like diamonds under artificial light. We will provide a more detailed account of this attraction soon.

Cave

Boat trip on the Dordogne

The meandering Dordogne romantically winds its way through the Périgord Noir. A boat trip is one of the most relaxing and picturesque ways to experience the beauty of the region. La Roque-Gageac, one of the most beautiful villages in France, is located on the banks of the Dordogne. It is a perfect starting point for exploring the picturesque landscape and historical sights.

We board a traditional Gabarre in La Roque-Gageac. This type of wooden boat was used in the past for transporting goods along the river. It gives the journey a historical and authentic touch. The rock walls look even more impressive from the water, as do the castles we encounter along the way.

Cruise on the Dordogne

Cadouin monastery

The Cadouin monastery was founded in the early 12th century by Géraud de Salles, a religious reformer. Originally a Benedictine abbey, the monastery quickly became an important pilgrimage site. The shroud of Christ possessed by the monastery contributed significantly to this. It brought great prosperity to the monastery and the town of Cadouin. In 1933, this changed significantly: research revealed that the shroud dated back to the 11th century and therefore never enshrouded the body of Christ. The pilgrimage to the monastery and the abbey collapsed completely.

The cloister is the highlight of the visit. The lively and sometimes humorous images and sculptures of biblical scenes are impressive. Just like the royal door that provides access to the abbey church. The sculptural work around the abbot’s seat is full of beautiful details.

Cadouin

Allow plenty of time if you want to visit all these attractions in Périgord Noir. Because the region is too beautiful and has too many highlights! In a small week, we actually ran out of time to admire everything in detail.

Sarlat

Information to know when visiting the attractions of Périgord Noir

Where is Périgord Noir located?

Périgord Noir is a region in the Dordogne department of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region in southwestern France. Sarlat is the most famous and touristy place in Périgord Noir. That place is located about 200 kilometers east of Bordeaux and 225 kilometers southwest of Clermont-Ferrand.

How do I get to Périgord Noir?

The region is just under 1,000 kilometers from Utrecht. It is actually necessary to have a car if you want to explore Périgord Noir. You can fly or take a train to Bordeaux or Toulouse and rent a car there.

If you use the A79 to reach Périgord Noir, you will travel on a motorway with a new toll collection system. Keep this in mind and pay on time. Otherwise, you will receive a significant fine.

Which castles in Périgord Noir should I not miss?

The region has several beautiful castles. These are the most beautiful:

  • Château de Castelnaud
  • Château de Beynac
  • Château de Biron
Which places in Périgord Noir are worth visiting?

In Périgord Noir, some of the most beautiful villages in France are located. Make sure not to miss:

  • Sarlat-le Canéda
  • Beynac-et-Cazenac
  • La Roque-Gageac
  • Domme
What are the most beautiful caves in Périgord Noir?

The Lascaux Caves are unique because of the beautiful wall paintings made thousands of years ago. For the most beautiful stalactites and stalagmites, visit the Grotte du Grand Roc. Especially ask for an English-speaking tour there. Guide Elisabeth enthusiastically tells about all the attractions, making you want to take a geology course right away!

What are the gastronomic specialties of Périgord Noir?

Périgord Noir is a paradise for gourmets. This region in the Dordogne is known for its rich culinary traditions and high-quality local products. Here you can discover the flavours of authentic France.

Foie Gras
Foie gras is the queen of the Périgord cuisine. This luxury delicacy, made from duck or goose liver, is produced in a traditional manner. Try it on freshly toasted bread with a bit of fig jam. The rich, creamy flavour is unforgettable.

Walnuts
Walnuts are found everywhere in Périgord Noir. They are used in sweet and savoury dishes. Taste the walnut tart, a local favourite. Or enjoy fresh walnut oil, perfect for giving your salads a nutty twist.

Truffles
Périgord Noir is famous for its black truffles, also known as "black diamonds". These rare and precious mushrooms have an intense, earthy flavour. Truffles are often grated over pasta, eggs, or even simple potato dishes. You can even go truffle hunting! We did this at Truffière La Sauça Vielha. Owner Patrick, but especially his dog, quickly found the most beautiful black truffles. Then Patrick prepared a delicious lunch for us, of course with truffle as the main ingredient. His years of experience as a restaurant owner guaranteed a pure and delicious lunch.

Cheeses
The region also offers a variety of delicious cheeses. Rocamadour, a soft goat cheese, melts in your mouth. Cabécou, another goat cheese, is perfect for a cheese platter. Don't forget to try the walnut bread with it.

At the large market in Sarlat, you can taste and buy these and other local specialties.

Where can I enjoy delicious food in Périgord Noir?

We can highlyy recommend four restaurants in Sarlat:

The next two restaurants are also highly recommended:

Where can I stay comfortably in Périgord Noir?

We visited the various attractions of Périgord Noir and Sarlat at the invitation of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region and Sarlat Tourisme. We have compiled the content of this blog independently and objectively based on our own impressions.