Sarlat is one of the most beautiful medieval towns in France. This city in the heart of the Dordogne exudes history, culture, and gastronomy. Atmospheric, winding streets with golden-coloured sandstone buildings make the centre attractive. At every corner, you discover a new architectural jewel, a cosy square, or an artisanal shop with local delicacies. During the day, the city bustles with lively markets and cultural events. In the evening, Sarlat takes on a magical glow from the illumination of gas lamps. Sarlat is a destination that stimulates all the senses. It’s a city where history and conviviality go hand in hand.
Sarlat: a journey back in time
In Sarlat, you walk through streets where people have lived for more than a thousand years. The city began as a small monastery in the 9th century. Monks built an abbey there, and slowly a village grew around it. In the Middle Ages, Sarlat became an important trading city. Markets attracted people from far and wide. The city became rich and powerful.
Of course, there were also exciting times. The Hundred Years’ War brought unrest, but Sarlat held firm. In the Renaissance, the city flourished again. Rich merchants built beautiful houses. You can still see these today.
Then came modern times. Sarlat changed but remained true to its past. In the 20th century, the city tackled things cleverly. The municipality restored old buildings and made the centre radiant again. Now it’s as if you’re walking around in an open-air museum. Wherever you are, you see and feel the city’s history in every place.
In 1965, Sarlat merged with the city of Canéda. From then on, it was called Sarlat-la-Canéda. The city is proud of its past. It protects its heritage. That’s why Sarlat still looks so medieval. A unique place in France.
Sights of Sarlat
Justine is our guide for exploring Sarlat. Our tour begins at the Place de la Liberté, the beating heart of Sarlat. Weekly lively markets are held here, and festivals are celebrated. The surrounding sandstone buildings radiate a warm, golden glow in the sunlight. The many cafés invite you to sit down and enjoy the atmosphere.
Next, Justine leads us to the Cathédrale Saint-Sacerdos. This impressive cathedral is dedicated to Saint Sacerdos. The sanctuary combines Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The imposing nave and beautiful stained-glass windows testify to craftsmanship through the centuries.
Not far from there is the Lanterne des Morts. It’s a mysterious 12th-century structure. This conical building stands in the old cemetery. Its original function remains a mystery. Some say it was a monument to plague victims. Others believe it served as a beacon for pilgrims.
Panoramic view over Sarlat
We walk on to the Manor of Gisson. This 14th-century manor house now houses a museum. The beautifully furnished rooms and the collection of historical objects provide a fascinating insight into the life of the nobility in the Middle Ages.
Then we reach the former Église Sainte-Marie. This church has undergone a remarkable transformation. Once a place of worship, this building now houses a covered market. The famous architect Jean Nouvel has renovated the sanctuary. In doing so, he added two enormous steel and lead-heavy doors more than 10 metres high. A panoramic lift in the bell tower takes us to a viewpoint, where we have a breathtaking 360-degree view over the city and its surroundings.
As we wander through the cobbled streets, Justine points out the many hôtels particuliers. These are stately mansions that testify to Sarlat’s prosperity in the 16th and 17th centuries. The narrow alleys are full of shops selling local products: truffles, foie gras, nuts, and artisanal cheeses.
Sarlat in the evening: a fairy-tale atmosphere
As evening falls, Sarlat transforms into a fairy-tale world. The gas lamps come on and envelop the city in a warm, golden glow. The soft lighting brings the historic buildings to life. It gives the medieval streets an almost magical atmosphere. It’s a delight to wander through the city in the evening. We can smell the aroma of local dishes from the restaurants everywhere. Street musicians complete the atmosphere. The quiet, lit alleys and squares create a romantic and nostalgic experience. They make our visit to Sarlat even more unforgettable.
Wednesday: market day in Sarlat
Every Wednesday and Saturday, the city comes to life with Sarlat’s market. Stalls filled with fresh produce offer a feast for the senses. There are crispy baguettes and fragrant herbs, local cheeses and fresh truffles. The producers are happy to let you taste their wares. Of course, we gratefully take advantage of their offer. It doesn’t stop at tasting. We buy various delicacies to take home.
We are there on a drizzly Wednesday morning. However, walking in the rain is not necessary. On this day, the immense steel doors of the Église Sainte-Marie are open. Inside, we find a cosy covered market. The smells of freshly baked nut pies greet us. When we visit the outdoor market afterwards, it has stopped raining. We are amazed at all the stalls. What delicacies!
Gastronomic highlights of Sarlat
Sarlat is a paradise for gourmets. The city is known for its truffles, especially the famous black truffle of the Périgord. There’s even a truffle museum in the city. In addition, foie gras is a speciality of the region. This luxury product, made from duck or goose liver, is prepared here in the traditional way. Duck breast (magret de canard) is also a favourite dish. It is often served with a sauce of walnuts or honey.
Nuts are another important ingredient in the local cuisine. From walnut oil to delicious walnut pies, the region has given it its own culinary twist. At the market, we also find the delicious cabécou, a soft goat’s cheese. The cheese is perfect to combine with a glass of local wine.
Truffle hunting
We experience a unique experience in Sarlat, namely a truffle hunt. We drive to La Sauce Vielha. There we meet Patrick, a former owner of Michelin-starred restaurants in Sarlat. Together with his trained dog, he takes us in search of the ‘black diamonds’ of the Périgord.
It’s fascinating to see how the dog precisely locates the truffles under the oak trees. Patrick shares his extensive knowledge and passion for these delicacies. He explains how they are harvested and used in the kitchen.
After our successful search, we return to his covered terrace. There, Patrick prepares a delicious lunch for us. Each dish is an ode to the truffle, from creamy risotto to perfectly cooked eggs with freshly grated truffle. The finesse and flavour combinations reveal his background in haute cuisine.
Biscuiterie Lou Cocal: a sweet stop in Sarlat
During our visit to Sarlat, we discover a delightful place for those with a sweet tooth: Biscuiterie Lou Cocal. This artisanal biscuit factory works with the best local products from the Périgord Noir, such as walnuts, chestnuts, and top-quality butter. Here we can not only taste and buy the fragrant biscuits. We can also watch the process of baking biscuits. A delicious stop to take a piece of Périgord home with us.
Discoveries around Sarlat: the treasures of the Périgord Noir
Our journey would not be complete without exploring the surrounding attractions. The Périgord Noir harbours numerous historical and natural wonders. These are some of the most beautiful sights in the Périgord Noir:
- A short drive takes us to the Grotte de Lascaux, famous for its prehistoric rock paintings. Although the original cave is closed to the public, a life-like replica offers an impressive insight into the art and life of our ancestors.
- An absolute highlight in the Perigord Noir is the Jardin de Marqueyssac. This is a beautifully landscaped garden with countless box hedges in all sorts of shapes and panoramic walking paths. From here, we have a breathtaking view over the valley and the meandering Dordogne river.
- In addition, there are the majestic castles of the Dordogne, such as Château de Beynac and Château de Castelnaud. They tower high above the river. The panoramic view over the landscape is unparalleled. These castles tell stories of knights, battles, and medieval intrigues.
- For nature lovers, the Vallée de la Dordogne offers beautiful walking routes along the river. There lie picturesque villages such as La Roque-Gageac and Domme. We discover with our own eyes why these villages are among the most beautiful villages in France.
Our time in Sarlat and the surrounding region has immersed us in a rich mix of history, culture, and gastronomy. We have not only admired the stones and monuments but also the stories and flavours that make this place so special. Sarlat is more than a destination. It’s an experience that lingers and invites rediscovery.
Practical information if you want to visit Sarlat in the Périgord Noir
Sarlat-la-Canéda, usually simply called Sarlat, is located in the southwest of France in the department of Dordogne. The city is in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. Sarlat is part of the picturesque Périgord Noir. Sarlat lies in a valley, surrounded by rolling hills and dense forests. The city is centrally located in relation to numerous historical and natural attractions in the Dordogne.
There are several ways to travel to Sarlat:
- By car: the fastest route runs via Paris, Orléans, and Limoges. There are sufficient parking facilities in Sarlat.
- By train: first take the train to Paris. There you change to a train to Bordeaux or Brive-la-Gaillarde. From those places, take a regional train or bus to Sarlat. Of course, you can also rent a car from your final train destination.
- By plane: the nearest international airport is Bordeaux. From Bordeaux, it’s best to rent a car and drive to Sarlat in about 2.5 hours. This offers the freedom to discover other beautiful places in the Dordogne along the way.
Sarlat has a unique mix of history, atmosphere, and gastronomy that makes it an unforgettable destination. The city is a true open-air museum, with beautifully preserved medieval architecture. The centre is a maze of atmospheric streets. During the day, it bustles with markets and festivals. While in the evening, it takes on a fairy-tale atmosphere from the gas lamps. In addition, Sarlat is a paradise for gourmets. Local specialities are truffles, foie gras, and duck breast. The combination of history, conviviality, and culinary richness makes Sarlat a city you want to enjoy again and again.
For a good impression of Sarlat, we recommend setting aside at least two days. This gives you enough time to explore the atmospheric streets and historical sights. There’s also plenty of time left to enjoy the local gastronomy and relax on a cosy terrace.
If you want to experience the market, plan your visit so that you’re there on Wednesday or Saturday. The market is a highlight where you can taste the best regional products and really experience the lively atmosphere of Sarlat. Do you have more time? Then an extra day is ideal to discover the beautiful surroundings of the Périgord Noir.
Sarlat is a paradise for lovers of French cuisine. You certainly shouldn’t miss the famous black truffle of the Périgord. This delicacy is used in many local dishes. In addition, the city is known for foie gras, a delicacy of duck or goose liver. Magret de canard (duck breast) is also a classic in local gastronomy. Furthermore, walnuts are an important regional product, used in walnut cakes and oils. Also try the local cabécou, a creamy goat’s cheese. Enjoy it with a glass of wine from the region to make it complete.
Sarlat has many eateries. These are some well-reviewed restaurants:
- Bistro de l’Octroi. Traditional French cuisine with a focus on local specialities.
- Le Petit Bistrot. Cosy restaurant with homemade dishes and an intimate atmosphere.
- Restaurant La Couleuvrine. Located in a historic building, with refined regional dishes.
- Le Presidial. Located in an old courthouse, with a romantic terrace and delicious dishes.
- Gueule et Gosier. Small, atmospheric restaurant with a creative twist on local classics.
Sarlat offers a wide range of accommodations. You can stay in small charming boutique hotels to luxury accommodations. Some good options are:
- Hôtel Le Compostelle. Hotel located within walking distance of the centre with comfortable rooms and a hospitable atmosphere. Excellent breakfast and private parking on site.
- Hôtel La Couleuvrine. Located in a historic building with a cosy atmosphere. Spacious and atmospheric rooms.
- Le Madrigal. Cosy hotel within walking distance of the old centre.
- Hôtel Montaigne. Centrally located and perfect for a short city trip.
This is the overview of all accommodation in Sarlat.
We visited the Périgord Noir and Sarlat at the invitation of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region and Sarlat Tourisme. We have independently and objectively compiled the content of this blog based on our own impressions.
