The second stage of the Malerweg takes us from Stadt Wehlen to Hohnstein. We walk through the heart of Saxon Switzerland, along iconic rock formations and through lush forests. Along the way, we admire the famous Bastei Bridge, the mysterious Schwedenlöcher and the impressive Hohnstein Castle. We conclude the blog with practical tips for the walk. And we highlight why this stage is a favourite among nature lovers and photographers.
We finished the first stage of the Malerweg with cloudy but dry weather. At the beginning of stage 2, however, the sky looks particularly threatening. First, we walk a short distance upstream along the now wildly churning Elbe. Then the path veers away from the river and up the hill just outside the built-up area of Stadt Wehlen. Here we feel the first raindrops. But once we are in the forest, the leafy canopy catches most of the rain.
The climb becomes steeper, and we notice our leg muscles having to work harder. Fortunately, we are rewarded with increasingly beautiful views of the surroundings. After about an hour of climbing, we reach a special resting place: the “Steinerner Tisch” (Stone Table). We pause briefly at this historic picnic table, which is surprisingly centuries old. King Augustus the Strong had this combination of table and bench made from local stone for a hunting trip. While we enjoy an energy bar, we imagine how the nobility once picnicked here.
Refreshed, we continue our journey along what is known as the “Fremdenweg” (Strangers’ Path). This path gets its name from the visitors (strangers) who began exploring the area in the late 18th century, following in the footsteps of artists. The Fremdenweg is considered the direct predecessor of today’s Malerweg.
During the first part of stage 2 of the Malerweg, we were among the few walkers. We felt like the first strangers who explored this impressive hilly and wooded world centuries ago. But this romantic image changes abruptly as soon as we reach a large information board by a tarmac road. Here there is a constant coming and going of coaches. They drop off hundreds of visitors at one of Germany’s most iconic attractions: the Bastei, a spectacular rock formation of tall sandstone pillars.
Meanwhile, the heavens have fully opened. Dressed in colourful rain ponchos, the day-trippers march along the road to their destination of the day. We try to escape the large crowd as much as possible and take a path through the dripping forest. As we approach the Bastei, we see the contours of the famous rock formations looming through the grey veils of rain. It’s a somewhat sad sight: the majestic sandstone towers stand deserted in the drizzle.
Initially, we feel a slight disappointment. Is this the world-famous natural wonder we were so looking forward to? The crowds and the gloomy weather seem to drown out the magic of the place. Yet we decide to come closer and take the time to let the surroundings sink in.
Slowly but surely, the beauty of the Bastei begins to break through the rain mists. We see how the rain gives the sandstone rocks a deeper, warmer colour. The mist hanging between the rock peaks lends the landscape a mysterious aura. We discover streams flowing over the rocks, forming glistening waterfalls in the subdued light.
We walk across the much-photographed Bastei Bridge, a masterpiece of engineering that brings us closer to the majestic rocks. As we cross the bridge, we feel the force of the wind and hear the rustling of the rain. We realise that we are experiencing the Bastei in a unique way, different from on a sunny day. The other walkers braving the rain undoubtedly share the same sense of adventure and wonder.
Eventually, we stand at a viewpoint, soaked but satisfied. The rain clouds briefly part and a watery sun casts a rainbow over the Elbe Valley. At that moment, we realise that the Bastei is an unforgettable experience. Even in the rain, or perhaps because of the rain. We enjoy the raw beauty of this natural wonder. We realise that we have seen a side of the Bastei that many visitors will never experience.
We leave the impressive rock formations of the Bastei behind and continue our way over the slippery paths of the Malerweg. The rain continues to fall steadily, but our mood is not dampened by the grey weather. We pull our hoods a bit tighter and step on briskly.
Our next stop is the Felsenbühne Rathen, an open-air theatre nestled among the rocks. There are no performances today, but we can vividly imagine actors performing here against the backdrop of the imposing rock walls. We descend to the Amselsee, a small reservoir that stretches out before our eyes. The raindrops dance on the water’s surface, creating a hypnotic pattern. Despite the weather, we see a few ducks swimming around happily, seemingly undisturbed by the wet conditions.
Not far from the Amselsee, we reach the Amselfall, a picturesque waterfall. Due to the persistent rain, the waterfall is particularly impressive today. The water thunders down, filling the air with a fine mist. We pause for a moment to take in this natural spectacle, fascinated by the power of the water.
The journey continues towards the picturesque village of Rathewalde. The path winds through dense forests, where the trees provide us with some shelter from the rain. The fresh forest air fills our lungs as we stride purposefully over the damp earth. Shortly after, we arrive in Rathewalde with its charming half-timbered houses and narrow streets. We pause briefly at the village pump to refill our water bottles and exchange a friendly greeting with another walker who hurries on.
After Rathewalde, the climb to the Hockstein begins. Along the way, we pass impressive rock formations that rise from the ground like silent sentinels. Once at the top of the Hockstein, we are rewarded with a breathtaking view over Saxon Switzerland. The green hills and deep valleys stretch as far as the eye can see. We take a moment to enjoy the panorama and have a quick snack.
The path then leads us over narrow ridges and through deep ravines. We carefully clamber over the slippery rocks, helping each other when necessary. It is partly because of this adventurous nature that we hardly notice the continuing rain. And with this attitude, we eventually reach Hohnstein.
We enter Hohnstein, a picturesque mediaeval town. The narrow streets wind upwards, leading to the impressive Hohnstein Castle that watches over the town. As we climb, we pass numerous half-timbered houses. Their facades tell stories of centuries gone by. The town was once an important centre for woodcarving. Even today, Hohnstein shows traces of this craft in the decorative details of the houses and the shop signs.
We reach Burg Hohnstein, our endpoint for today. This mediaeval castle, now converted into a welcoming hotel, greets us with open arms. We check in and briefly explore the historic corridors and rooms. Hungry from our long walk, we quickly head to the restaurant at Burg Hohnstein afterwards. Here we sit at long, rustic tables. The murmur of other walkers fills the space as we share our experiences of the day. We enjoy hearty, local dishes that replenish our energy.
After dinner, tired but satisfied, we retire to our room. As we lie in bed, we reflect on the impressions of the day: the breathtaking views, the Bastei shrouded in rain clouds, the challenging paths, and the warm hospitality of Hohnstein. With a smile on our faces, we fall asleep, looking forward to what the next stage of the Malerweg will bring us.
Stage 2 of the Malerweg is approximately 11 kilometres long. Although shorter than stage 1, you should allow more time due to the elevation changes. Most walkers take four to five hours to complete this stage.
There is a brief route description and an overview map available on the Saxon Switzerland website. Combined with the excellent waymarking, getting lost is virtually impossible. Additionally, a GPS track (GPX file) is available for download.
Stage 2 of the Malerweg is a reasonably challenging route. This is partly due to the elevation changes. The route has a total ascent and descent of more than 500 metres each. Some parts of the path are rocky, requiring sturdy footwear. The path encompasses various surfaces, including forest trails, rocky sections and some paved portions.
One of the most challenging aspects of the stage is the numerous steps. This is especially true for the descent from the Bastei Bridge. The steps can be taxing on the knees. Additionally, the route includes some narrow sections.
Despite being approximately 11 kilometres and taking about four hours, this stage requires good fitness. Nevertheless, it is one of the most popular stages of the Malerweg. This is mainly due to the spectacular views, such as from the famous Bastei Bridge.
The vast majority of the route is on unpaved roads.
According to the Saxon Switzerland website, you can certainly walk stage 2 with your dog. An exception is the steep and narrow descent through the Wolfsschlucht. However, you can avoid this part of the route by taking an alternative nature path to Hohnstein via the Polenztal.
The official starting point of stage 2 of the Malerweg is Stadt Wehlen. The walk begins at the market square of this town. The official endpoint of the stage is Hohnstein. Here you will find several interesting sights, including the Kasper Museum and the castle.
To reach the starting point of stage 2 of the Malerweg by public transport, you have the following options:
Consult the Verkehrsverbund Oberelbe (VVO) website to plan your journey.
Yes, there are several catering establishments along stage 2 of the Malerweg. Here are some options:
Note that opening times may vary, especially outside the high season. It's always advisable to take some snacks and water with you in case a planned stop turns out to be closed.
In Hohnstein, the endpoint of stage 2, you have several good accommodations:
On the Saxon Switzerland website, you will find even more (inexpensive) alternatives. Select Hohnstein as the location in the search filter.
We walked the complete Malerweg at the invitation of TMGS (Tourismus Marketing Gesellschaft Sachsen) and Tourismusverband Sächsische Schweiz. We have independently and objectively compiled the content of this blog based on our own impressions.