The first stage of the Malerweg begins in Pirna-Liebethal and leads through an enchanting landscape to Stadt Wehlen. The route winds through old town centres, lush forests and along majestic sandstone rock formations. In this walking account, you’ll read why this stage has inspired many artists for centuries.
With a mixture of excitement and anticipation, we rise early in our hotel in Dresden. The city is slowly awakening as we pack our rucksacks and hurry to the station. We catch one of the first trains to Pirna, the starting point of our multi-day walk. Despite the forecast of prolonged rain from storm Boris, a watery sun is shining as we leave Dresden. The threatening clouds on the horizon cannot dampen our enthusiasm. We’re curious about the beautiful landscapes we’re going to see. That’s why we’re eagerly looking forward to our upcoming walking adventure. Rain or no rain!
From the train station in Pirna, we walk to the bus station. It takes a bit of figuring out where our bus to Liebethal departs from. A young walker tells us where to go. Arriving at the bus stop, we see other walkers, also laden with rucksacks. It can’t be otherwise; this is the right stop. After about ten minutes, we board the bus and drive out of Pirna’s built-up area full of anticipation.
The surroundings visibly change into an undulating and especially wooded landscape. It’s heavily clouded by now, but fortunately still dry. A little later, our bus arrives at the official starting point of the Malerweg. Our multi-day walking tour really begins now. We take our first steps on the path, completely ready to discover the beautiful nature and breathtaking views of Saxon Switzerland.
With the winding Wesenitz river on our right, we walk along a beautiful forest path behind another walker. At first glance, he’s a bit older than us. Yet he manages to stay ahead of us with his particularly quick pace. As if he’s walked the Malerweg for the hundredth time.
We continue our walk along the wildly flowing Wesenitz until we reach an opening in the forest. Suddenly, soft, melodious sounds reach us. Surprised, we look around, searching for the source of this unexpected symphony in nature. Our eyes fall on several hidden speakers, skilfully concealed among the trees. The mystery is solved when we discover the impressive Richard Wagner monument in the middle of this serene environment.
The music, which we recognise as Wagner’s masterpieces, forms a perfect soundtrack to this tribute to the famous composer. We pause for a moment, fascinated by the harmony between art and nature. We’re not alone in this: a small child in brightly coloured rainwear is also spellbound, listening to the music. It creates a magical scene, which we immediately capture in a short video.
The monument isn’t here by chance; Wagner found inspiration in the breathtaking landscapes of Saxon Switzerland for his operas. The Malerweg, once walked by artists and composers seeking inspiration, now honours Wagner’s legacy. His music is interwoven with the beauty of this region. It invites walkers to experience the magical connection between art and landscape. Exactly as the great master once did.
From the impressive Wagner monument, we walk towards the Lochmühle and pass an information board. The sign tells us that Wagner walked here several times with his dog Peps in 1846 during his holiday in Graupa. The “brausende Wehr im finsteren Felsengrund” (roaring weir in the dark rocky ground) inspired him to write the music for the world-famous opera Lohengrin.
The Lochmühle itself has a rich history dating back to 1559, when it was first mentioned as a grain mill. After a devastating rockfall in 1681, the mill was rebuilt. In 1842, it received permission to function as an inn. This marked the beginning of its transformation into a popular destination for artists, poets and composers. Wagner composed parts of his Lohengrin here in the summer of 1846.
The Lochmühle played a crucial role in the early tourist infrastructure of Saxon Switzerland. It served as the “western gate” to the area, where visitors first encountered the wild and romantic sandstone formations. The mill has been disused since the 1990s. Nevertheless, the Lochmühle remains an important historical and cultural landmark along the first stage of the Malerweg.
The route next brings us to the fascinating Daubemühle. This historic watermill has adorned the banks of the Wesenitz for centuries. We pause briefly to admire this industrial heritage. The mill’s history goes back to 1465. Over the centuries, the Daubemühle served various purposes: from sawmill to grain mill and barley huller. Around 1850, they were already producing wood pulp for paper and cardboard by hand here, an innovative technique for that time.
We cross the Wesenitz via a stone bridge from the mid-19th century. The current buildings and hydropower facilities date from 1875, when industrial wood pulp production started here. The mill has undergone various transformations: from paper factory to holiday camp for children, and now a hydropower plant. On the bridge, we take a few more photos of this historic gem. With renewed energy, we then begin the climb to Mühlsdorf. The sound of the Wesenitz slowly fades away.
After passing the Lochmühle, we climb upwards towards Mühlsdorf, a charming village that lies high above the Wesenitz valley. This originally ribbon village from the mid-15th century is built on sandstone. We pass several old houses and imagine what life was like here in the past. Back then, the 270 inhabitants mainly worked in quarries or lived off agriculture and horticulture. It’s fascinating to think that Mühlsdorf once had city rights and mining freedom.
We leave the village and follow the Alte Lohmstraße, a historic road that leads us through a beautiful landscape. The path brings us to the edge of the forest, where we make a special discovery. Here stands an intriguing coordinate stone that marks the exact 51° north latitude and 14° east longitude. Honestly, we don’t quite understand why someone bothered to place a stone with precise coordinates here in the forest. To this day, this question remains unanswered.
Shortly after the intriguing coordinate stone, we dive into a beautiful forest and gradually descend. Suddenly, we face a challenging passage: a steep slope where we have to carefully clamber down. Our effort is rewarded when we reach the historic Försterbrücke. This bridge connects the Liebethaler Wäldchen with the Lohmener Klamm. After various renovations, the bridge has withstood harsh winters and floods for years. Aware of the many walkers who have preceded us, we cross the Wesenitz via the sturdy construction.
Our route leads along impressive rock walls where we occasionally encounter other enthusiastic walkers. Eventually, the forest path brings us to a tarmac road. We cross the road and continue our walk along a long and picturesque sandy path that winds along the edge of the forest. On our other side, rolling fields and meadows with peacefully grazing cows stretch out. This idyllic landscape accompanies us until we reach the famous Uttewalder Grund.
The Uttewalder Grund is an impressive, 2.1-kilometre-long gorge. This gorge is characterised by steep sandstone rock walls that rise up on both sides of the path. The splendid landscape creates a mysterious and romantic atmosphere. We now understand all the more why so many artists in previous centuries were inspired by the Malerweg. Halfway through the gorge, the ‘Uttewalder Felsentor’ awaits us: a natural rock gate that we have to partially duck under. It adds a touch of adventure to the already impressive walking tour. As we leave the gorge, we establish that the legendary rock gate, as far as we’re concerned, crowns this stage of the Malerweg.
Just outside the gorge, we pass the Waldidylle inn. We could do with a cup of coffee, but unfortunately, the establishment looks closed. Our journey continues through a beautiful, mixed forest. Eventually, we reach Stadt Wehlen, where the imposing castle catches our attention. This 12th-century castle once served as a bulwark against Bohemian invasions. It played a crucial role in the defence of the region.
As we climb upwards, we see signs of restoration work. Good thing. The historic monument is thus preserved for future generations. Via a narrow but long stone staircase, we climb the hill on which the castle is built. Once at the top, we’re rewarded with a breathtaking view over the Elbe. The fast-flowing river winds like a silver ribbon through the beautiful landscape. It’s a lovely spot and a worthy conclusion to the first stage of the Malerweg.
As we leave Stadt Wehlen, we realise that we’ve miraculously stayed dry throughout the first stage. We wonder if luck will smile on us during the second stage as well? The answer and more adventures can be read very soon in our next blog.
Stage 1 of the Malerweg is about 11.5 kilometres long. That seems short, but thanks to the 110 metres of climbing and 141 metres of descent, it still takes about three to four hours.
There is a brief route description and an overview map on the Saxon Switzerland website. Combined with the excellent waymarking, getting lost is virtually impossible. In addition, there is a GPS track (GPX file) of the stage that you can download and use.
Not very difficult, especially if you already have reasonable walking fitness. This stage offers a good introduction to the landscape of Saxon Switzerland and is a relatively easy start to the Malerweg. You can calmly get used to the terrain before tackling the more challenging stages.
We did this, but we certainly wouldn't recommend it. For Stage 2, you should allow about four hours of walking. Additionally, during the second stage, you visit the Bastei. For many, the Bastei is the most beautiful viewpoint of the Malerweg. You want to enjoy it leisurely without feeling the pressure to arrive at your next accommodation on time.
The vast majority of the route goes over unpaved roads.
According to the Saxon Switzerland website, you can walk stage 1 just fine with your dog.
The official starting point of Stage 1 of the Malerweg is in Pirna-Liebethal, at the entrance of the Liebethaler Grund. The official endpoint of this stage is Stadt Wehlen.
From Dresden, take the S-Bahn (line S1) to Pirna. Then take bus G/L to the starting point just outside Pirna. This bus runs regularly and takes you directly to the beginning of the Malerweg. Get off at the stop "Pirna, Liebethaler Grund".
Along the route, we found only one catering establishment: Gasthaus Waldidylle. The establishment is located in the Uttewalder Grund, almost at the end of Stage 1 of the Malerweg. They serve traditional meals and local game specialities. Note: they are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
At the endpoint (Stadt Wehlen), there are various restaurants and cafés, such as:
In any case, take enough drinking water but also something to eat during your walk on Stage 1. This applies especially outside the high season when fewer catering establishments are open.
In Stadt Wehlen, the endpoint of Stage 1, you have several good accommodations:
On the Saxon Switzerland website, you will find even more (inexpensive) alternatives.