Just south of Lucerne in Central Switzerland lies the ski resort of Engelberg. This charming mountain village was a Benedictine monastery in the 12th century. Today, Engelberg offers a perfect blend of traditional Swiss charm and world-class skiing opportunities. We visited the crown jewel of the Engelberg ski area, namely Mount Titlis. One thing became immediately clear to us: variety is the trump card here. Ideal for people like us, who want to do more during their winter sports holiday than just skiing!
Today, a visit to the Engelberg ski area is planned. Because we have to take quite a journey by train from Lucerne and we have a rather full programme, we get up at the crack of dawn. In less than three-quarters of an hour, we’re at the foot of Titlis. At 3,238 metres, this is the highest mountain in the canton of Obwalden. Unfortunately, we can’t see Titlis from here. The low-hanging clouds completely block the view of the Swiss Alps.
We rush to the middle station of the Engelberg-Titlis ski area with the TITLIS Xpress cable car. Before we even get there, we’re already above the cloud cover. What a beautiful sight, that sparkling blue sky with the pearly white mountain peaks! At the middle station, we switch to the TITLIS Rotair, which takes us all the way to the top. The TITLIS Rotair is the world’s first rotating cable car. During the five-minute ride, the gondola makes a complete 360-degree rotation, giving us a truly spectacular panoramic view of the surrounding Alps.
Before our winter sports activities begin, Sergio from TITLIS Cableways first takes us to the Titlis glacier cave. Located at an altitude of over three kilometres, this 150-metre-long ice tunnel offers us the unique opportunity to explore the inside of a glacier. The cave is excavated in the eternal ice of the Titlis glacier and is illuminated by colourful LED lights that make the ice crystals sparkle. The constant temperature of -1.5°C in the cave provides a refreshing experience. Sergio tells us that even in summer, the temperature doesn’t rise above -1°C. By the way, have you ever wondered what happens to the squirrel in the famous Ice Age animated films? Before we leave the tunnel, we get an answer to that pressing question.
Next, Sergio takes us to the TITLIS Cliff Walk, the highest suspension bridge in Europe. We carefully step onto the bridge and immediately feel the biting cold penetrate our coats. At an altitude of 3,041 metres, an icy wind blows around us as we cling to the railing. Beneath our feet gapes an abyss more than 500 metres deep, separated only by the metal grating we’re walking on. With each step, we feel the bridge move slightly, which makes some of our hearts beat faster. However, the breathtaking views of the surrounding Alpine peaks and glaciers make the intense experience more than worth it.
After this, it’s time for the real action. Our group splits into three small groups: the ski heroes who will conquer the black slopes with freeride pioneer Geny Hess, the more ‘recreational’ skiers, and the snowshoe hikers.
The ski area offers an impressive 82 kilometres of slopes for skiers of all levels. Engelberg-Titlis stretches from the picturesque village of Engelberg at 1,050 metres to the majestic Titlis glacier at 3,020 metres altitude. This creates a breathtaking altitude difference and varied skiing opportunities.
For experienced skiers, the ski resort offers 10 kilometres of challenging black slopes. Such as the famous Rotegg slope, known for its steep inclines and technical challenges. The lion’s share of the ski area consists of 47 kilometres of red slopes, perfect for the average to advanced skier. These slopes wind through beautiful mountain landscapes and offer a good mix of challenge and fun.
Beginners and less experienced skiers can indulge in the 25 kilometres of blue slopes. These well-maintained, wider slopes provide the ideal environment to improve technique. Or to simply enjoy the spectacular Alpine environment. A highlight for skiers of all levels is the Titlis-Engelberg slope. This 12-kilometre-long valley run bridges an impressive altitude difference of no less than 2,000 metres.
A modern lift system consisting of 17 lifts, including gondolas, chair lifts and drag lifts, opens up the Engelberg-Titlis ski area.
For those looking for adventure off the marked slopes, Engelberg is a paradise for freeriders. The area offers the “Big 5”: five legendary off-piste routes that are easily accessible from the lifts. But because they are in high alpine terrain, they come with dangers such as avalanche risk as well as crevasses and high cliffs. These are certainly not routes for freeride beginners. For this reason, a good guide is crucial if you want to ski off-piste here.
Although we’re not going off-piste today, freeride pioneer Geny Hess briefs us extensively about freeriding before and after skiing. Geny has been skiing in this area for 75 years, he tells us. When he was barely three years old, his parents already took him down the slope. His weathered face, marked by laugh lines around his merry eyes, tells the story of countless adventures in the mountains. With his greying beard and tanned skin, he exudes a natural authority.
We are impressed by his modest attitude, despite his pioneering role in freeriding. His passion for the mountains and the freedom of off-piste skiing is contagious. During lunch, we hang on his every word as he starts talking about his adventures in the pristine snow of Engelberg. I wasn’t part of the group of ski heroes who raced down the slopes behind Geny earlier today. However, I gather from my travel companions’ reactions that they found Geny’s guiding particularly valuable. You can no longer book Geny as a guide for off-piste adventures. However, for inspiration, you can check out the interesting documentary on YouTube starring Geny.
Engelberg offers more than just skiing or snowboarding. The ski area has a variety of winter activities, from cross-country skiing to snowshoe hiking and even snow scootering. Of course, we set out to explore and start with a delightful snowshoe hike.
The Engelberg ski area offers excellent opportunities for snowshoe hiking, a popular winter activity that allows us – avid hikers – to explore the pristine winter landscapes. There are various marked routes. They range from easy walks for beginners to challenging treks for experienced hikers. The routes lead through beautiful snow-covered forests and across open alpine meadows. And whichever route you take, you’re guaranteed breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
We too set out on snowshoes. Our guide Dominique is already waiting for us outside with shoes and poles. She has the Obertrübsee Trail in mind for us. And we willingly go along. We then carefully step through the pristine snow, surrounded by majestic mountain peaks glistening in the winter sunlight. The trail leads us along the frozen Obertrübsee, where the silence is only interrupted by the crunching of our snowshoes. Along the way, we thoroughly enjoy breathtaking views of the Titlis and the surrounding Alps. The fresh mountain air and physical exertion provide an invigorating experience.
Later in the afternoon, a less sustainable but very fun winter activity awaits us: snow scootering. On a cordoned-off section of the SNOWxpark, we’re allowed to try out three different snow scooters to our heart’s content. We step onto a scooter full of anticipation. The engines roar to life and we feel the excitement coursing through us. Slowly, we manoeuvre the scooters over the snowy terrain, our confidence growing with every metre. Not much later, we’re racing around the circuit like seasoned racers.
In addition to skiing or snowboarding, the Engelberg-Titlis ski area offers excellent cross-country skiing opportunities for beginners and advanced cross-country skiers. There is an extensive network of well-maintained trails, with a total of about 35 kilometres of tracks. These trails are spread across different locations in and around Engelberg, including the flat valley floor and higher areas such as Gerschnialp and Trübsee.
As cross-country skiers, you can choose from tracks for both the classic style and the ‘skating’ technique, with routes that vary in difficulty and length. A popular option is the Gerschnialp trail, which offers a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. For those looking for an extra challenge, there are also some routes with more altitude difference.
The cross-country skiing season in Engelberg usually lasts from December to March, depending on snow conditions. Local ski schools offer lessons and clinics for all levels. There are several rental locations where you can hire the necessary equipment.
Unfortunately, we lacked the time to go cross-country skiing in this magnificent area as well. It’s a sport we’ve enjoyed several times in recent years. For us, therefore, an extra reason to return to Engelberg!
Our experiences with the Engelberg ski area are absolutely positive. This impressive Swiss ski area exceeded our expectations with its combination of challenging slopes and breathtaking views. We were particularly impressed by the variety of slopes, suitable for both beginners and advanced skiers. Although the area is popular, we found that the 82 kilometres of slopes offered enough space to avoid crowds.
Just like in the small but fine ski area of Stoos, we were also very charmed by the majestic Alpine landscape here. The imposing Titlis glacier and the surrounding mountain peaks formed a spectacular backdrop for our winter sports day. The panorama from the top of Titlis, accessible by the iconic rotating cable car, was simply breathtaking.
With its extensive ski area and varied terrain, Engelberg is ideal for advanced skiers looking for long descents and challenging off-piste possibilities. The 2,000-metre altitude difference provides impressive, long descents. Yet we find the area also suitable for less experienced skiers, with well-maintained blue and red slopes. Moreover, Engelberg offers more than just skiing. From the most beautiful snowshoe hikes to challenging cross-country skiing trails, there are countless activities that contribute to an unforgettable winter sports experience.
The Engelberg ski area is located in Central Switzerland, in the canton of Obwalden. It is situated in the Uri Alps. The nearest major city is Lucerne.
Depending on where you're coming from, you can take either the car or the train. Another option is by plane: fly directly to Zurich. From there, you can continue by train or rental car to reach the ski area.
The Ski resort of Engelberg-Titlis offers skiers 82 kilometres of slopes. These slopes are divided into different difficulty levels:
For cross-country skiing enthusiasts, there are about 35 kilometres of trails available.
The ski area has an impressive altitude difference of 2,010 metres, with the lowest slope at 1,050 metres and the highest lift at 3,020 metres altitude. There are a total of 17 ski lifts in the Ski resort of Engelberg-Titlis.
The ski area is divided into two main areas:
The Engelberg ski area has many advantages that make it a popular destination for winter sports enthusiasts. Here are the main benefits:
Although Engelberg is a popular and appreciated ski area, it has, like every resort, some drawbacks. In our opinion, these are the main disadvantages of the Engelberg ski area to keep in mind:
Despite these drawbacks, Engelberg remains a highly appreciated ski area, especially for its snow reliability, varied terrain and beautiful surroundings.
A day pass for adults in the Engelberg ski area costs CHF 69, which is about €73. On the ski area's website, they use dynamic pricing (different each day). But count on an amount of around 300 CHF for a six-day ski pass, depending on the dates and how far in advance you book. This is equivalent to 317 euros. This means that skiing in this ski area is certainly not expensive.
Keep in mind that Engelberg is not a large ski area. And that the rates are therefore lower than at the larger ski areas in Switzerland, such as Zermatt, Saas Fee and Les 4 Vallées.
Engelberg is not just a winter destination; it offers a range of activities and attractions throughout the year. Here are some highlights of what to do and experience in Engelberg outside the ski season:
The Engelberg ski area offers a variety of excellent restaurants and mountain huts where you can enjoy delicious food. Here are some of the best options:
The Engelberg ski area offers several excellent accommodation options:
Other accommodation in Engelberg.
At the invitation of Switzerland Tourism, we visited the Ski resort of Engelberg-Titlis. We have independently and objectively compiled the content of the blog based on our own impressions.